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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Enclosed Series D Crash Bars
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<blockquote data-quote="rapcom" data-source="post: 28210" data-attributes="member: 191"><p>Many thanks for the responses so far. Having studied the bars from my own bike, and also a modified bar from someone else's bike, it is apparent that the tubes do not approach the plate perpendicularly, or even consistently at the same angle. Thus any insert, spigot or extension of the tube will not be at ninety degrees to the plate, and any retaining bolt or nut will not tighten down flat on the plate, reducing its effectiveness and strength.</p><p>Using a double set of engine plates introduces more problems with the alignment of the side panels and top mountings. John's two spare holes seem to be the sidecar mounting hole and the distributor cowl mounting hole. In my case, the sidecar mounting hole is actually in use for a sidecar fitting, making a double plate even more problematical. </p><p>B'Knighted's solution of welding a wiggle into the bar to clear the exhaust pipe does not address the problem of non-perpendicularity. The wiggle on the right bar can be adjusted in manufacture to work, but you still have to do the left as well.</p><p>The most elegant solution offered so far came to me via email off Forum from one of our most senior and knowledgeable members, and suggested cutting the tube from the plate, and welding a circular flange to the tube. If the central hole in the flange is made oversize or tapered, the angular discrepancy can be accommodated, tack-welded in situ for positioning, then finish-welded on the bench. Three bolt holes at 120 degrees through the flange and plate would complete the fitting. I have a photo of this installation available by email if requested.</p><p>Any other thoughts and suggestions?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="rapcom, post: 28210, member: 191"] Many thanks for the responses so far. Having studied the bars from my own bike, and also a modified bar from someone else's bike, it is apparent that the tubes do not approach the plate perpendicularly, or even consistently at the same angle. Thus any insert, spigot or extension of the tube will not be at ninety degrees to the plate, and any retaining bolt or nut will not tighten down flat on the plate, reducing its effectiveness and strength. Using a double set of engine plates introduces more problems with the alignment of the side panels and top mountings. John's two spare holes seem to be the sidecar mounting hole and the distributor cowl mounting hole. In my case, the sidecar mounting hole is actually in use for a sidecar fitting, making a double plate even more problematical. B'Knighted's solution of welding a wiggle into the bar to clear the exhaust pipe does not address the problem of non-perpendicularity. The wiggle on the right bar can be adjusted in manufacture to work, but you still have to do the left as well. The most elegant solution offered so far came to me via email off Forum from one of our most senior and knowledgeable members, and suggested cutting the tube from the plate, and welding a circular flange to the tube. If the central hole in the flange is made oversize or tapered, the angular discrepancy can be accommodated, tack-welded in situ for positioning, then finish-welded on the bench. Three bolt holes at 120 degrees through the flange and plate would complete the fitting. I have a photo of this installation available by email if requested. Any other thoughts and suggestions? [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Enclosed Series D Crash Bars
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