FT: Frame (Twin) Early Rapide Research: 1947
- Thread starter craig
- Start date
Now that I've had a better look at a larger picture the clutch cover looks to be fully circular so correct C28 fitted.
Correct. You would also have to change the primary cover due to the different bolt pattern.
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Here are a couple of photos of Alex's bike.
If it is not OK to put the numbers photo on here, please delete it. Thanks.
Nos deleted by me.
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I saw this A/B Miller head lamp on Ebay and wondered if the switch ammeter were correct.
I numbered some items for explanation.
I have never seen a flat copper, exposed connection (1) before.
What is the purpose of (2) rheostat? resistor?
what is the purpose of (3) big flat copper tab?
I numbered some items for explanation.
I have never seen a flat copper, exposed connection (1) before.
What is the purpose of (2) rheostat? resistor?
what is the purpose of (3) big flat copper tab?
Thats a pre war headlight. My series A Comet has that type of switch with the resistor. No voltage regulator was fitted. When the switch is in the off position the dynamo is disconnected from the battery. When you switched to "charge" the battery was connected to the dynamo through the resistor to limit the charge rate. Switch the headlight on and the resistor is bypassed and you get higher charge rate. The same basic switch was used on series B & C but without the resistor etc fitted. That's why you get a 4 position switch and on series B & C's the charge position appears to do nothing.
Thank you, I now understand the resistor, but I still wonder about the big copper paddle (3).
Here is the reflector back side. Does something rub on this (3) paddle?
Seems to be in the area of the wire clip slotted bracket.....or maybe the reflector bowl itself?
Thank you.
Here is the reflector back side. Does something rub on this (3) paddle?
Seems to be in the area of the wire clip slotted bracket.....or maybe the reflector bowl itself?
Thank you.
If you look at the reflector there is a small slotted hole above the spring clip assembly, when the headlight is on some of the light shines through that hole and lights up the white case of the ammeter. Perhaps that small paddle helps to deflect a bit more light. These and other usually small items on these bikes get lost over the years, so it is nice to see some of these original parts.
Craig my handsome, at the top you have the banana slot as Greg mentions then the clip, terminals for lamp contacts, then insulated bus bars with sockets rolled into each end for the dip & mainbeam wires to be threaded through rolled bullets and turned back on themselves the lower paddle as you seem to be calling it is the same thing but for the ground terminal. Lovely type of terminal as no soldering require (simplicity it's self). Road side maintenance made easy.
I got my reflector re silver plated in H.M.D. Devonport whilst serving my time as a fitter/turner then changed to 12V so it's in a box now but the light was very good and much whiter after plating.
bananaman.
I got my reflector re silver plated in H.M.D. Devonport whilst serving my time as a fitter/turner then changed to 12V so it's in a box now but the light was very good and much whiter after plating.
bananaman.
I have been reading my early Riders Handbook and taking notice of some of the changed details throughout the handbook from the more common later editions.
Here is the text in the electrical equipment I would like help with please.
Where is this "Miller" Instruction book?
At what build was the dip moved to the left?
At what build was the stop light switch wire moved from the battery+?
This is quite independent of the ignition circuit, so that, if required, the dynamo can be either disconnected or removed when entering sporting events. The 6-volt, 50-watt dynamo is voltage controlled by an external regulator, whose function is to limit the generator output to avoid overcharging the battery on long runs and to permit the dynamo to charge at maximum rate should the battery be flat. Consequently, the ammeter which is situated on the headlamp is likely to show somewhat inconsistent readings, as these depend more on the state of the battery than anything else. With a fully-charged battery the ammeter should read between 2 amps. and 4 amps. charge, but this may rise to 8 amps if the battery is flat. Although there is an "Off" position shown on the switch, this is actually inoperative, and the ammeter will still show "Charge". For more detailed information and wiring diagram see "Miller" Instruction Book.
The headlamp switch controls the taillight, speedo light, pilot bulb and the twin-filament main bulb. The main beam is dipped or raised by the dipper switch on handlebars, which is normally fitted on the right, but can be changed over if desired. The tail light wire is fitted with a screwed connector covered,with a rubber sheath, adjacent to the battery to facilitate disconnection when removing the upper frame member.
The horn and stop-light circuits are separate from the main circuit, and their current consumption does not register on the ammeter. The positive horn lead goes from the battery + terminal direct to the horn, from which an earth wire runs to the push button on bars; this earth wire is fitted with a connector of a different pattern from the tail light wire to obviate incorrect coupling-up, which would shortcircuit the battery to earth.
The stop-light wire in early models is also connected to the battery + terminal, but later was taken off the + horn terminal. In either case the wire then goes to the stop-light switch and thence to the stop light. The stop light should be set by moving the spring anchorage along the brake rod so that the light comes on slightly before the brakes do. Occasionally it may be necessary to swivel the anchorage round the rod, as the angle at which the spring is pulling affects the action of the switch contacts.
Here is the text in the electrical equipment I would like help with please.
Where is this "Miller" Instruction book?
At what build was the dip moved to the left?
At what build was the stop light switch wire moved from the battery+?
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT-LIGHTING SYSTEM
Lighting System
Lighting System
This is quite independent of the ignition circuit, so that, if required, the dynamo can be either disconnected or removed when entering sporting events. The 6-volt, 50-watt dynamo is voltage controlled by an external regulator, whose function is to limit the generator output to avoid overcharging the battery on long runs and to permit the dynamo to charge at maximum rate should the battery be flat. Consequently, the ammeter which is situated on the headlamp is likely to show somewhat inconsistent readings, as these depend more on the state of the battery than anything else. With a fully-charged battery the ammeter should read between 2 amps. and 4 amps. charge, but this may rise to 8 amps if the battery is flat. Although there is an "Off" position shown on the switch, this is actually inoperative, and the ammeter will still show "Charge". For more detailed information and wiring diagram see "Miller" Instruction Book.
The headlamp switch controls the taillight, speedo light, pilot bulb and the twin-filament main bulb. The main beam is dipped or raised by the dipper switch on handlebars, which is normally fitted on the right, but can be changed over if desired. The tail light wire is fitted with a screwed connector covered,with a rubber sheath, adjacent to the battery to facilitate disconnection when removing the upper frame member.
The horn and stop-light circuits are separate from the main circuit, and their current consumption does not register on the ammeter. The positive horn lead goes from the battery + terminal direct to the horn, from which an earth wire runs to the push button on bars; this earth wire is fitted with a connector of a different pattern from the tail light wire to obviate incorrect coupling-up, which would shortcircuit the battery to earth.
The stop-light wire in early models is also connected to the battery + terminal, but later was taken off the + horn terminal. In either case the wire then goes to the stop-light switch and thence to the stop light. The stop light should be set by moving the spring anchorage along the brake rod so that the light comes on slightly before the brakes do. Occasionally it may be necessary to swivel the anchorage round the rod, as the angle at which the spring is pulling affects the action of the switch contacts.