Deisgn of Gear lever on The COMET

Ruben

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi from Oz
Can any one coment on the design of the COMET ger lever

I am the new proud owner of a 51 Comet have only done a few KM's on it and am having trouble with the position of the gear lever , it is hard to get to with toe to change gear
It appears to be way to short or need a large kink in it , I have to move foot off foot rest and search for lever each time

I have ridden the rapides before and there is no such problem diiferent gear box of course

every thing else is so well thoght out on the bike except the gear lever

any comments
 

Hugo Myatt

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hi from Oz
Can any one coment on the design of the COMET ger lever

I am the new proud owner of a 51 Comet have only done a few KM's on it and am having trouble with the position of the gear lever , it is hard to get to with toe to change gear
It appears to be way to short or need a large kink in it , I have to move foot off foot rest and search for lever each time

I have ridden the rapides before and there is no such problem diiferent gear box of course

every thing else is so well thoght out on the bike except the gear lever

any comments

The correct gearlever is cranked about halfway along its length and is tilted up slightly after it leaves the splined boss. Unfortunately this was a product specific to Vincent Comets. The gear lever is very vulnerable if the machine is dropped to the right and frequently breaks. Burman supplied gearboxes to many different makes all with there own particular design of gearlever. They will all fit the Comet/Burman box after a fashion. Using the neutral indicator with the wrong lever either bends the indicator or prevents the engagment of top gear. The correct Comet lever has been unavailable for a very long time and so a lot of Comets currently sport a 'foreign' lever (e.g. Matchless/AJS, Ariel, Panther and many pre-war makes, etc.)
 

nkt267

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
There are 2 spline diameters on Burman gear levers,so all will not fit the Comet. If you can get a large diameter spline one then with careful heating you can bend a straight one to fit and look acceptable.John
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hi from Oz
Can any one coment on the design of the COMET ger lever

I am the new proud owner of a 51 Comet have only done a few KM's on it and am having trouble with the position of the gear lever , it is hard to get to with toe to change gear
It appears to be way to short or need a large kink in it , I have to move foot off foot rest and search for lever each time

I have ridden the rapides before and there is no such problem diiferent gear box of course

every thing else is so well thoght out on the bike except the gear lever

any comments
Loosen the footrest and move it about to give your foot a bit more room. Of course if it is the wrong lever then you may have to try plan "B".
 

Hugo Myatt

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
There are 2 spline diameters on Burman gear levers,so all will not fit the Comet. If you can get a large diameter spline one then with careful heating you can bend a straight one to fit and look acceptable.John

John

I stand corrected.

Hugo
 

Tom Gaynor

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I've been told that aluminium and brass are both "hot short" which means that unlike steel they become MORE brittle if heated, and are better bent cold. My experience (which is limited) is that this is more true than false. Can anyone shed any more light on this?
 

Howard

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
My take on this. Put it in a vice, put a reasonable force on it, then heat it until it moves. Leave the force constant. Rub soap on the ally, when it goes dark brown/black it should be bending temp. Let it cool down slowly.

I think there are different techniques for different grades, and whether it's cast, forged etc, but this has worked for me on gear lever type thingys that can work/age harden.

Good Luck

H

ps Tom, I think the difference is, if you cool the metal too quickly it will go hard and brittle, cooling it slowly anneals it (I think) my materials tech course was a long time ago.
 
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nkt267

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I must admit that I only used enough heat to allow a 'reluctant' bend, the soap method would have been better if I had known about it at the time.John
 

Howard

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I must admit that I only used enough heat to allow a 'reluctant' bend, the soap method would have been better if I had known about it at the time.John

I can't claim any credit. I was shown by a very old blacksmith when I was a youth who regularly fell of bikes....... Thinking about it, that very old blacksmith was probably 10 years younger than I am now. :(
 
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