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HB: Handlebars Decompressor lever to work with modern switchgear

Normski

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I’d like to use a modern left hand handlebar switch on my Twin but this fouls the current valve lifter lever. Can anyone recommend one which sits far enough out to clear? Or some other solution to my problem?
 

Comet Rider

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VOC Member
Hi Normski,
On my Comet I used a pair of early Honda CBR600 Clutch levers which works well.
On my Greeves Norton I used the clutch lever off an early Honda XL500 which has a valve lifter built into the same perch as the clutch lever

I can take a pic tomorrow if you want?

Neil
 

b'knighted

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I had an Armstrong, 80s but modern for me, which had a valve lifter that cleared its switchgear. I use a standard Vincent valve lifter on the Knight with R series BMW switchgear and clutch lever.
 

BigEd

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VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
I’d like to use a modern left hand handlebar switch on my Twin but this fouls the current valve lifter lever. Can anyone recommend one which sits far enough out to clear? Or some other solution to my problem?
If you can find a bike breakers it would be worth a browse. I've got switchgear from what I think was a Triumph 600 4 cylinder, the earlier one before they went to three cylinders. It has horn, headlight flasher, dip and 3 position light switch on the left and kill switch and electric start button on the right. I use it with the standard long levers for clutch and lifter on the left and a Kawasaki master cylinder and lever on the right. There should also be loads of the very popular CBR600 Honda bits about that Neil used.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Using the twin plug head Enfield type decompresor you can use a small trigger type lever that can be mounted a bit more inboard and only needs a slight one finger action works fine with my Comet electric start
 

Normski

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Thank you for your suggestions, at the moment I’m hoping to keep the current clutch (and brake) levers and perches and these work with either the Hinckley Triumph or Honda switches I have here. The problem is only the valve lifter. Vibrac’s suggestion to mount further inboard may work but it appears that the valve lifter has been adjusted to work at the end of a longish travel of the cable and I’m hoping for a fix which doesn’t involve going in to the timing chest. Has anyone used a choke lever?
 

Hugo Myatt

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VOC Member
Thank you for your suggestions, at the moment I’m hoping to keep the current clutch (and brake) levers and perches and these work with either the Hinckley Triumph or Honda switches I have here. The problem is only the valve lifter. Vibrac’s suggestion to mount further inboard may work but it appears that the valve lifter has been adjusted to work at the end of a longish travel of the cable and I’m hoping for a fix which doesn’t involve going in to the timing chest. Has anyone used a choke lever?
I use a cluster from Paul Goffe. It has dip/main, indicators and horn. It does not interfere with the clutch or valve lifter levers.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Moving the whole of the valve lifter lever should not affect the adjustment of the cable. The inner and outer cables move together. I have used the switch cluster of the 500 cc Honda across the frame V twin (sorry don't know the model number) and it is superb.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Here are a couple of pics of my small lifter. The open box in background is the UFM stand that holds UFM and forks without detaching cables and wiring while sorting pushrod seals etc
Apologies to purists for grip shade!
1593858372774.jpeg
1593858422276.jpeg
 

Normski

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I’m trying to make this work with the switch next in and close up to the lever perch, Vibrac’s picture shows the valve lifter lever between the two, with my short little fingers I don’t want the indicator nor dip switches too far away from the grip.
 

Normski

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Moving the whole of the valve lifter lever should not affect the adjustment of the cable. The inner and outer cables move together. I have used the switch cluster of the 500 cc Honda across the frame V twin (sorry don't know the model number) and it is superb.
I didn’t explain the bit about the extra travel very well. The existing lever has quite a generous distance from pivot to cable fitting and thus moves the inner quite a way when operated through its full stroke (but it fouls the switchgear if that is fitted) Using this lever the valves are lifted towards the end of its stroke ie it’s taking up a lot of slack movement in ET165 before lifting the valves. I’ve another lever here where the pivot is further from the handlebars and thus misses the switchgear but which doesn’t move the cable inner so far - with the rocker caps off to observe, this lever at full stroke is barely causing the front exhaust pushrod to move and not moving the rear exhaust pushrod at all. I don’t want to pre load the ET165 in order to get the stubbier lever to work.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
When I had this same system on the twin I used a junction box to split the cables to the two head decompressors and arranged it so that a small movement opened just one cylinder so I knew which one was the rear cylinder and full pull gave me both open. (both open for instance when running up on rollers to get oil round the block after a lay up etc))
I really must sort out a Venhill full length decompressor the RE one cokes up the spark plug thread at the lower end (I have been saying that for at least two years:oops:)
 

Normski

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I’ve not got heads drilled for an Enfield type decompressor Tim, but if they ever come off I’ll get them drilled and tapped.
Have settled on using the previous lever mounted very inboard of normal, looks awful but does no harm and buys me time.
 

Marcus Bowden

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VOC Member
When your heads come off borrow my jig from B'nighted and do them your self as they can be done in the garden shed with simple handtools
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
When I bought my Shadow it had a switch block that included quite a neat lever that is moved with the left thumb. No idea of the brand as I don't know when it was fitted. The lever is integral with the block at the base below the horn button. If interested I could delve into the shed and take photos. I will not be using it as I do not plan to fit indicators. The R.H. switch block has the electric start button, kill switch etc.
 

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