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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
D model rear shock
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<blockquote data-quote="macvette" data-source="post: 13966" data-attributes="member: 262"><p><strong>D shock</strong></p><p></p><p>Hi Dave,</p><p>I have a D and renewed the bushes. I didn't do anything to the shock itself because there were no leaks, the rod was in great condition and there was plenty of damping. There is a compression tool to remove the spring collets. It consists of a stout ring with a slot to allow it to slip onto the top of the spring housing. An inverted U shape is welded to the ring with a hole in the centre of the U. A clevis is attached to the top eye of the shock through the hole in the U and a nut is used to compress the spring to allow the collets to be removed. I didn't have one so I improvised with a very stout screwdriver. I wouldn't recomend it!</p><p>As far as bushes go, I Googled "polyeurethane shock bushes" and found a number or suppliers with online catalogues showing the dimensions of their bushes.These are usually for car suspensions. I found bushes with the correct taper and inner and outer diameters, the only thing I had to do was trim them slightly to length. You need two single taper bushes for each shock eye. You could start by looking at Powerflex. You will need and inner sleeve and two washers at each eye. It's important to get inch size bushes and sleeves but that shouldn't be a problem in the states.</p><p>If none of this appeals, you could splash ot on a Thornton system. Forgot to say that the washers on my shock were not welded or brazed.</p><p>Regards Mac</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="macvette, post: 13966, member: 262"] [b]D shock[/b] Hi Dave, I have a D and renewed the bushes. I didn't do anything to the shock itself because there were no leaks, the rod was in great condition and there was plenty of damping. There is a compression tool to remove the spring collets. It consists of a stout ring with a slot to allow it to slip onto the top of the spring housing. An inverted U shape is welded to the ring with a hole in the centre of the U. A clevis is attached to the top eye of the shock through the hole in the U and a nut is used to compress the spring to allow the collets to be removed. I didn't have one so I improvised with a very stout screwdriver. I wouldn't recomend it! As far as bushes go, I Googled "polyeurethane shock bushes" and found a number or suppliers with online catalogues showing the dimensions of their bushes.These are usually for car suspensions. I found bushes with the correct taper and inner and outer diameters, the only thing I had to do was trim them slightly to length. You need two single taper bushes for each shock eye. You could start by looking at Powerflex. You will need and inner sleeve and two washers at each eye. It's important to get inch size bushes and sleeves but that shouldn't be a problem in the states. If none of this appeals, you could splash ot on a Thornton system. Forgot to say that the washers on my shock were not welded or brazed. Regards Mac [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
D model rear shock
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