E: Engine Comet Oil Leak

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I would never order just one gasket and two washers I try and keep a little stock of those items. fast though the service is sometimes you cant wait, there is also a minimum order charge that could be invoked.
by the way when it comes to ET38 always order twice what you need :confused:
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I needed a T/Case gasket the other day, Found one about 14 years old = Shrunk !,
Soaked it in water, Sponged it off, Bit of Grease = Perfect. Cheers Bill.
 

Steve Morris

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
OK, I bought a 1/4 UNC tap (3rd) and have cleaned out the holes, spent about an hour on this, i literally dug through what was probably years of crap, and have found the bottom of the holes...

I have 3 different sized set screws, 1", 1 1/4" and 1 3/4".

The holes with the dowels in had 1x1 3/4" in one, and 1x 11/4" in the other. (are you with me so far?)

The other 9 should, have 1" in, but will comfortably (I have tried these one by one as i don't want the bolts 'bottoming out'!) take 1 1/4" bolts, except for the one furthest to the left (left of the dynamo drive) which will take a 1" bolt comfortably.

Now from experience i think that using ALL the available thread is definitely more beneficial than some of it (so long as we are NOT bottoming out)??

So, now on to the one (circled in the first picture) that is 'partially' stripped. Now I have cleaned it out thoroughly, and run a tap down it, i can get it to tighten to the accepted level using a 1 1/4" bolt, without helecoiling it, so this is what i am going to do. Main reason for this is that the guy i normally buy my helicoils from was not at the auto jumble i went to yesterday, so I couldn't buy any, plus I thought of the worst case scenario, I tighten this up and the last 1/4"+ of thread pulls, i am still in the same position, but no longer have to worry about the last remaining bit of thread left in the hole!

Last question's are I guess going to be a matter of choice but i would like your opinions, especially on the last question please...

Stainless or Mild Steel?
Plain slotted screw head or Allen screw head? (How did they come from factory??)
What were the original threads? It was my understanding that UNC/BSW were different in pitch thread angle by 5º? I am guessing BSW...

Best regards,

Steve.
 
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chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
You've done all right there, go on without the helicoil for now. In my opinion slotted cheeseheads look best and were original. Shape a screwdriver head to fit them properly. These screws were originally cadmium plated and made to British Standard 450 of 1932. None of the screws I have seen complies to this standard, but most don't look too bad; and you can't get cad. plating done these days in ordinary commercial places. At this diameter the difference in thread form is not a consideration.
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Know Thy Beast and the Spares List have a wealth of information on screw length and pitch. If the longer screws will fit, they can't hurt.
 
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vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Cap heads give best pressure are easy to use and don't cause as much inadvertant damage for 'tarty' jobs rather than racing (yes even me!) I have used slot heads but if you buy from on line rather than the proper items be prepared to reduce head in a lathe
 

Steve Morris

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thats a brilliant shout...

You mention buying the 'proper' items, where do you get these from? The ones from VOC look like allen heads?
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
They also come in sets ( Comet timing chest is list 18 for screws list 18/1 for cap heads)
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