E: Engine Comet Oil Leak

Steve Morris

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
IMG_5874.jpg
 

Steve Morris

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Well, i decided that as the oil was p*ss*ng out i would need to bite the bullet and remove the cover. I did lots of reading and watched a lot of Mi Ty's videos on youtube (seems a really nice guy, does he frequent this website?) and removed the cover today. I tried to tighten the screws first to ensure i had not dodgy threads, and low and behold i did.....

I think i have found the reason why though, The one circled is just turning when i tried to tighten it, but after a good clean up, check and measure, i discovered the screw wasn't long enough. The one adjacent to it was about 5-7mm longer, and after measuring the depth of the hole, worked out this was exactly what i need! The timing cover didn't have a gasket, it was just fitted using red hematite (horrid stuff, never did like it, in my apprenticeship i used to use it to fit and seal core plugs), so, I believe whoever fitted the cover back on last time mixed the screws up?

Anyway, I have ordered a plain gasket from VOC plus 2 camshaft oil feed rubber washers, and am now waiting for them to arrive. While i am pondering, does anyone have or can someone suggest a preference to which gasket sealant i should use? Welseal or Hylomar? (or neither!).

Here is a couple of pictures showing the screw holes i mentioned earlier. Can i ask the learned to cast their eyes over it also? and let me know if something doesn't look right? Also, what else should i check whilst in here?

Thanks all.

Regards,

Steve.
 

robin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Steve, 1. helicoil the semi-stripped thread (1/4"whit or for our American friends UNC).
2. what locking device are you using to lock the dynamo pinion sleeve nut? PD23/1 does the job quite well.
3. The screws that fit through the two dowels are 1 1/4" long. These are the two holes that usually strip.
Cause short screws.
Regards,
Robin.
 
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roy the mechanic

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
While the cover is off it's a good idea to run a tap into the screw holes, followed by a squirt of compressed air. It can be surprising how much collects to stop the screws from going all the way.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hello Steve, Yes,Mike comes on here.
Can't see a lock tab on the Big idler nut ?.
Is the big Crank nut tight, I always pin pop where the keyway is.
I think the oil leak was because there was no gasket, After all these years, The faces might not be flat, So need a gasket.
The 2 long screws should be where the dowels are.
Good Luck, Bill
 

Steve Morris

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Steve, 1. helicoil the semi-stripped thread (1/4"whit or for our American friends UNC).
2. what locking device are you using to lock the dynamo pinion sleeve nut? PD23/1 does the job quite well.
3. The screws that fit through the two dowels are 1 1/4" long. These are the two holes that usually strip.
Cause short screws.
Regards,
Robin.

Thanks Robin.

Sorry, not with you reference No 2? I have not removed the dynamo pinion nut at all? It doesn't look right to me though..
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
There is indeed a lot of crud that collects in those holes over the years. Before running a tap in there (especially if it is a bottoming tap) just to be safe you should clean it out as best you can first. Running a drill bit in by hand first helps. When doing a set of cases I'll use a small drill (gently) and use a screw to guide the bit to prevent it from coming in contact with the threads. Overkill perhaps, but it really speeds up the process. The crud can be packed quite hard. Between the timing side and primary etc, it is quite surprising how much old gasket goo etc. will come out of a set of cases.

Drill.jpg
 
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