Misc: Everything Else Comet Needs Electric Starter

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Not too sure I could snap off a crank end.
I own several rattle guns air/elec.
I have a lever and clickable type torque wrenches.
I do have a variety of Loctite 222, 242, 243, 638, 641, 270, 271, 268 possibly other vintage.

How about a bend tab with two ears and fasteners for balance?

20210619_LockTab2.jpg


Or maybe just some Loctite in the threads?
 
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Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
No need to convert Yard/hundredweights or whatever, I never use torque wrenches, only confusing. My theory is : A lot more bolts were snapped by torque wrenches than by feel on common spanners.
Yes, Loctite on that nut may lead to offensive language at a later stage unless you chose a low strength for peventing unscrewing once preload on nut has disappeared. I´d go for Locite 221 or 222, no "normal" thread lock, too much force on big threads like here. Maybe think about a tab washer that can be removed without force, even on a crank that you´d have to lock somehow unless using a rattle gun.

Vic
Happy Birthday Vic, Can't always agree with the things you do,
But you make a Lovely Job of it.
All The Best, Bill.
 

craig

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VOC Member
Installed a Magura rubber covered button for Alton starter.

20210620_StartButton1.jpg


MaguraRubberCoveredButton1.jpg


Maximum weather proof.
Thin band allows slipping under front brake web for close position to throttle/brake.
Strong spring to prevent unwanted activation.
Wire discharges to the side, not rear as pictured.
 
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craig

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VOC Member
Mounting the outer primary, 3 holes do not match well enough to allow screw entry.

File holes to fit/fix?
over size drill these three holes to next size? Maybe F or G drill bit sizes?


NeedsStarter34.jpg
 
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ClassicBiker

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VOC Member
When dealing with a series of 1/4 inch fasteners, 9/32 is the usual clearance hole size, which corresponds to a K drill. If the three offending holes are on size at 1/4 inch (E drill) I don't any harm in seeing if an F or G provide the necessary clearance, knowing that K is the maximum. I would also treat them as individuals, meaning if one works with a F and another needs G so be it. I would only remove the minimum amount of material.
Obviously your outer primary and your original inner primary matched up no problem. How does you primary gasket compare to your new electric start inner primary? I'm curious if you need to trim the gasket to match either.
Steven
 

craig

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VOC Member
Redrilled blue indicated cover holes initially measured 0.250" to 0.265" (17/64).
Helped a small amount , but bottom holes still off by 20-30 thou.

Hand filing the two bottom holes to raise them as needed.
Concern now is the two screw heads fitting existing recess in case.

CoverRedrill1.jpg
 
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Martyn Goodwin

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Non-VOC Member
Redrilled blue indicated cover holes initially measured 0.250" to 0.265" (17/64).
Helped a small amount , but bottom holes still off by 20-30 thou.

Hand filing the two bottom holes to raise them as needed.
Concern now is the two screw heads fitting existing recess in case.

View attachment 43076
I assume the outer cover fitted on the inner BEFORE you tried fitting the electric leg? Do the holes in your original T4/2 line up with the new electric leg replacement? If no I would be asking the supplier for a no charge replacement
 

craig

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VOC Member
Careful filing of the two bottom cover holes and enlarging surrounding holes have allowed an okay fit.
This Comet was all OEM and been apart many times in my 15 years.......and the kit fit up to this point has gone well.

CoverFitFinal1.jpg


Moving on to electrical, the Alton starter was trial run with spark plug out and seems fine.
Finishing battery case and wiring.
 
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