Misc: Everything Else Comet Needs Electric Starter

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
NeedsStarter1.jpg


This Comet needs an electric starter and so an Alton Comet kit was purchased.
If others have accomplished this please advise on what to do.
Project starts today.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Moving on with inner case removal

NeedsStarter6.jpg

NeedsStarter7.jpg



RFM moved forward at this step.

Lunch time, gotta go.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I had one of the first UK kits just follow the instructions supplied its easy and since getting a lithium battery that fits in a standard case i haven't used the kickstart. The ammeter goes back to normal after about a mile I will strip the primary this Autumn and see how it looks but so far so good.
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Oil leaks.........The main one were the gearbox main shaft passes through can be sorted, but i think they leak from the starter..........I was unable to strip this one enough to sort it out, as some of the screws were loctited in and even with heat they would not budge.......these are allan head countersunk cap screws.........main issue with them is the allan key sizes are so small, they strip out if over torqued. The ESA assembly on this one failed as well, the small donut shape bushes seemed to deform, so the pins had moved fully to one side.........hard to explain........This engine does have a TP 600 kit on it and does go rather well. We locked up the ESA as it has a Conways clutch installed and these do have a shock absorber built in...........The Conways clutches are not without issues either........this one had a massive amount of run out on the sprocket, so much so we machined up a new one to fix it.........adjusting up the primary chain was hopeless. The outer primary cover shield area that wraps around the clutch goes awfully close to the new starter mechanism at the very top, visual with the inspection cap off..........just dremel a small radius on that corner, removing say 5 or 6 mm off it to give a bit of safe clearance. I'll let you know how I sorted out the leak from the gear box shaft hole in the inner cover area.........To be continued.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
it is at this point (Step 3) that the Alton instructions go belly up.

Instructions say " it is a good idea to connect the power cable to the starter and the earth cable to the lug on the back of the inner cover before installing the kit because access to these is quite difficult when the kit is in place".

No electrical lay out , no cable lengths to fit what install, where the supplied bracket is to be used, what fasteners to be used, simply refer to line drawing of circuits.

More beer is going to be required to solve any technical design issues today and I don't have any beer in stock.
Bye Bye
Craig

NeedsStarter8.jpg
 
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craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Couple more pics at this stage.

Trial fit looks promising, all lines up
NeedsStarter9.jpg


solenoid on bottom of batt tray, maybe best for my cosmetic look.
Cut holes in batt tray and Exide batt case to allow heavy cable drop thru to solenoid?

NeedsStarter10.jpg

Podtronics at rear of F106, i don't like it.
I am already missing the look of my Miller regulator box
NeedsStarter11.jpg
 
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Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Oil leaks.........The main one were the gearbox main shaft passes through can be sorted, but i think they leak from the starter..........I was unable to strip this one enough to sort it out, as some of the screws were loctited in and even with heat they would not budge.......these are allan head countersunk cap screws.........main issue with them is the allan key sizes are so small, they strip out if over torqued. The ESA assembly on this one failed as well, the small donut shape bushes seemed to deform, so the pins had moved fully to one side.........hard to explain........This engine does have a TP 600 kit on it and does go rather well. We locked up the ESA as it has a Conways clutch installed and these do have a shock absorber built in...........The Conways clutches are not without issues either........this one had a massive amount of run out on the sprocket, so much so we machined up a new one to fix it.........adjusting up the primary chain was hopeless. The outer primary cover shield area that wraps around the clutch goes awfully close to the new starter mechanism at the very top, visual with the inspection cap off..........just dremel a small radius on that corner, removing say 5 or 6 mm off it to give a bit of safe clearance. I'll let you know how I sorted out the leak from the gear box shaft hole in the inner cover area.........To be continued.
May be a good idea to change over from the Burman clutch to a Conway's while you are at it - just to get the Honda ESA that is an integral part of the Honda clutch used by Conways
 

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Oil leaks.........The main one were the gearbox main shaft passes through can be sorted, but i think they leak from the starter..........I was unable to strip this one enough to sort it out, as some of the screws were loctited in and even with heat they would not budge.......these are allan head countersunk cap screws.........main issue with them is the allan key sizes are so small, they strip out if over torqued. The ESA assembly on this one failed as well, the small donut shape bushes seemed to deform, so the pins had moved fully to one side.........hard to explain........This engine does have a TP 600 kit on it and does go rather well. We locked up the ESA as it has a Conways clutch installed and these do have a shock absorber built in...........The Conways clutches are not without issues either........this one had a massive amount of run out on the sprocket, so much so we machined up a new one to fix it.........adjusting up the primary chain was hopeless. The outer primary cover shield area that wraps around the clutch goes awfully close to the new starter mechanism at the very top, visual with the inspection cap off..........just dremel a small radius on that corner, removing say 5 or 6 mm off it to give a bit of safe clearance. I'll let you know how I sorted out the leak from the gear box shaft hole in the inner cover area.........To be continued.
I bet the red Loctite was used on those screws. Loctite produce a grade for screws - its 220 or 222, purple in colour and pretty thin. That's the one to use on ANY of the screws - its not intended for Nuts and Bolts!
 

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