Misc: Everything Else Comet Needs Electric Starter

craig

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Where exactly did you folks reference to remove the 2 x 8 section of Comet outer case?

Do I install the new sprag clutch (at the engine sprocket), let it rub on the housing, then use the rub marks to guide where to Dremel material away? Maybe a thicker gasket could solve this?

NeedsStarter18a.jpg

NeedsStarter19a.jpg
 
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craig

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Is this the correct position for reference?
Seems like an easy reference, if this is correct red/green dimension


NeedsStarter19.jpg
 

vibrac

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Just cut it by the picture its not very critical I was more interested in the depth of the slot when I milled it out A bit more oil on a Honda Clutch (if any) wont matter.On that and clearance for the shock absorber a bit of plasticene will tell you whats happening and the shock absorber grove if needed to be made in the cover 'nose' is minimal and some times not needed.
One thing to check is the amount of mainshaft you have the length sticking out varies a lot (hence the washers with later kits) you need sufficient shaft for all the bits to bear on.
If all this guff is worrying potential buyers...dont! I for one worry more about getting a front inlet pushrod in its follower cup :)
 

greg brillus

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Craig, The bike I had here......I did not install the kit from the start, it was done by someone else.........The bike had done less than 1000 km's from that installation. The extra area it needed a whisker off, see your pic above showing the red section with the 2-8-2 numbers.......the right side upper corner needed a bit cut off that upper corner, as when the cover was on, this corner sat very close to the starter drive chain. Personally, I would attempt to remove the starter and its transfer gears through the inner cover to see how it all seals before you fit the inner assembly.......Afterwards will be too late........I'm not sure how it is set up exactly with seals and/or sealant on these parts.......... On this bike I stopped the main leak from the gearbox main shaft, but it still weeps a small amount forward of this, and around where the starter mounts from behind........Obviously where the inner cover sits on the engine, this area must have sealant used to prevent leaks from there as per an original cover/joint. Might just be worth looking to see what is what.........I would be interested to know myself.........Cheers.
 

craig

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Looking at areas to seal now rather than take apart later. It looks to me that that the thru shaft #2 will take oil in from the primary, fill the back mounted starter gearbox and then leak out the rear bush #2.

Filling this gearbox will allow leaking out the perimeter of gearbox (shown as #6).
also maybe leaks out the motor/gearbox joint #5.

NeedsStarter20Sealant.jpg


Also from inside the gear #1 (gear/hole) looks like to be receiving too much primary oil.

NeedsStarter20Sealan2t.jpg



Possible leak from grounding stud 6mm x 1.0 on back side.
 

greg brillus

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Problem is you/ or I don't know what trouble the manufacturer has gone to to stop oil leaks at these places.........The twin starter kits don't have any components that run in an oil bath so no problem there.
 

Martyn Goodwin

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Non-VOC Member
Applied sealant to inner case fasteners.
I am using ThreeBond 1184.


View attachment 42903
That's a silicon gasket material, not a purpose designed thread sealer - I would try to get it out and off now before its too late. If you let it fully cure you may only be able to remove the screws destructively. see post #10.

Before you ask - I do not have Loctite shares
 

craig

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That's a silicon gasket material, not a purpose designed thread sealer - I would try to get it out and off now before its too late. If you let it fully cure you may only be able to remove the screws destructively. see post #10.

Before you ask - I do not have Loctite shares
I don't understand this suggestion that this silicone based sealant would duplicate the effect of "red" loctite.
I think I have been using silicone based sealants (Threebond, 3M, Permatex, Hylomar) on threads and surfaces for decades, some times it actually works. I never experienced thread locking.
Should I be wary of this Threebond 1184?

But in this case, today, on the inner screw heads you see, the sealant ThreeBond 1184 is just topically applied. like paint.
 
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stu spalding

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I now use Threebond 1184 on "gappy" joints, gearbox end cover etc, in place of silicone RTV with no problems. For fine joints, gaskets etc I use Wellseal except for pushrod tube seal ET104 which gets a smear of Boots No 7 clear nail varnish..... honest!. Cheers, Stu.
 

craig

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Squeezed a bead of ThreeBond 1184 on the engine case web and installed the main inner starter case.
Clutch cable must be routed this config to miss starter.
Trial fit engine sprocket.
Check gap at clutch roller bearing = 0.030"min - 0.060"max.......this is the push/pull gap at the between case and roller washer.


NeedsStarter23.jpg
 
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