E: Engine Comet Mongrel

Cyborg

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There are a couple of other Comet specials in the works, but thought I should create my own thread so I'm not polluting theirs.

I assume this is the original outer bearing race and those are the factory punch marks. What does the little round stamp that says HRD 10 mean?

Case main bearing bore.jpg
 

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  • Case main bore HRD10.jpg
    Case main bore HRD10.jpg
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Cyborg

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I now know why that race is the only one still in the cases. I heated the cases to 200c and the race wouldn't come out even with some careful encouragement from a slide hammer/puller. Although I've never tried it, some on here have mentioned running a bead of weld around the inside of the race.
 

davidd

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This is a wheel bearing, but I have done case bearings also. It is pretty ugly, but with the wheel bearings some of the residual grease drips down as you are welding.

Brearing Removal 1.jpg


You just need a bead, which will contract more readily than the race and it will pull the bearing race inwards. If you still have some trouble with it not dropping out then weld a piece of scrap from bead to bead. I use 1/8" strap.

Brearing Removal 2.jpg


You can push it out or smack it from the other side. This one broke out on the first smack. The race is quite brittle and will shatter. I gobbed it up with weld and hit it again. It is easier on a bigger diameter, cleaner race.

David
 

Cyborg

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I ended up welding in a piece of round MS because the race seemed so tight. Then I was able to tap it out from the other side and keep it from going cockeyed in the bore.
No signs of locktite or ever being removed before. These cases seem really nice, so hopefully there won't be any surprises when replacing the spindles, bearings,pump, etc.

Case bearing race removed.jpg
 

davidd

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A job well done! The only surprise I ran into the last time I did a Comet timing chest was that the rear follower spindle was too long. I set all the spindles to the height of the large idler stud with the ET173 installed because that is where the bottom of the steady plate rests. All the other spindles (with their various washers) are set to that same height so the plate is flat. When I installed the rear follower spindle it would not go in far enough. This is very annoying with everything hot! The spindle was hitting the cylinder stud. The photo below shows the new spindle on top and the old one below:

100_2682.jpg


It is worth looking at before installing the replacement. A bit of grinding may be necessary.

David
 

Cyborg

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A job well done! The only surprise I ran into the last time I did a Comet timing chest was that the rear follower spindle was too long. I set all the spindles to the height of the large idler stud with the ET173 installed because that is where the bottom of the steady plate rests. All the other spindles (with their various washers) are set to that same height so the plate is flat. When I installed the rear follower spindle it would not go in far enough. This is very annoying with everything hot! The spindle was hitting the cylinder stud. The photo below shows the new spindle on top and the old one below:

View attachment 17929

It is worth looking at before installing the replacement. A bit of grinding may be necessary.
The
David

Thanks for the heads up about the spindle. I'll check it before I heat the cases. I don't have the cylinder studs in yet, so I wouldn't discover a long spindle until later on when I installed the stud..... that would be a PITA.
I ordered a new ET162 spacer for the steady plate, but it seems a little short when I check it against the position of the existing spindles. I had planned on using the large idler spindle as datum. I'll make a new spacer if necessary. Not sure why I bought one in the first place. Probably thought it would save me some time.
 

chankly bore

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From what I recall the ET 162 should be about .447" wide, at least that's what I got when I measured a new original (with the part number stamped on it)! They obviously had too much time on their hands in 1947.
 
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