E: Engine Comet Mongrel

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I dont get this push rod seal angle
I have used a lot of amc (dommie) boxes many on belt drives and some not in the prime of life I have yet to see anything coming out of the push rod ole onto the clutch'
NB on some instalations I have added a new entry point for the clutch cable as the bottom of the F106 tie got in the way of a nice run fortunately the Norton lever swivels to align

26999
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I called BCS and ordered the seal. Bugs me to buy stuff I can make, but want to ride this eyesore. Thought about PM ing Stu a frame photo with the vin tag clearly displayed and see if I could turn him into a pillar of salt.
They also have the Atlas/Dommi lever 04-0029
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I dont get this push rod seal angle

Before I knew there was a seal kit available, I wondered if anything would find its way through there. I don't recall any issues with the other Nortons, but they were either wet clutch or a dolls head with dry clutch that was unlikely to build any pressure. There seems to be lots of chatter on the inter webs about them and seems like its relatively common. I was just going to run it as is, but ordered the kit just to avoid any further drama in the clutch releasing department.
 

Chris Launders

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I've never had an issue of oil leaking out into the clutch and creating a problem before, but I have now, and I've only been using it 35 years !!
Perhaps it's because I've stopped it all leaking out fairly rapidly, it didn't happen until about 500 miles after I rebuilt the box.
A friend of mine just suggested machining the end of the shaft to take a valve stem oil seal of the right size.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I suppose the other thing is size matters. On the BCS site it states: " It has been reported that after market clutch rods are being repoped in 1/4" material. The original factory rods are 6mm. The seal is designed for 6mm rods only."

I have 1/4" rod in there now, but have some not quite 6mm, but close lying around. Could anneal the 1/4 and turn it down so the seal has a nice surface to do its job.

Anyway the point being maybe 1/4 instead 6mm cuts down on the oil getting through in some cases?
 

Oldhaven

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
NB on some instalations I have added a new entry point for the clutch cable as the bottom of the F106 tie got in the way of a nice run fortunately the Norton lever swivels to align
Vibrac,
Don't I recall that you didn't weld that new cable entry, but used some sort of metal epoxy to put a new bit on? I have the same problem.
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Tim Kirker had to do something similar with his Seeley. I looked through the five articles in Whitakerpedia, but didn't find any details. Maybe in 10YO?

Edit: Page 293 of 40YO.
 
Last edited:

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Vibrac,
Don't I recall that you didn't weld that new cable entry, but used some sort of metal epoxy to put a new bit on? I have the same problem.
Yep Ben used that alloy soldering stick a small piece of alloy gnd a gas can burner I thought he was mad but he had patience kept it all clean then it suddenly flows and makes a fine job I won't say he is mad again after it was done he happily drilled and tapped a hole for the cable
 

ericg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
At least we aren't having to endure talk about H(no R)Ds.
But still some Japanese stuff though!
Anyway, if you add a plain plate to your Commando clutch basket it will improve operation dramatically. It's a well known trick.
Eric
 

Bill Cannon

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
But still some Japanese stuff though!
Anyway, if you add a plain plate to your Commando clutch basket it will improve operation dramatically. It's a well known trick.
Eric
Yes I did that recently to mine and it made a significant difference.
Bill
 
Top