E: Engine Comet Mongrel

Chris Launders

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I have also previously converted an AMC box to the Dollshead/Laydown/Manx worm type lifter which is even lighter, it requires another cable boss welding on the housing but inside all that is required is to turn the OD of the brass worm outer until it fits in the roller/pillar retaining ring and braze Iit into the ring and make a spacer to replace the roller/pillar flange. Look at a Laydown or Manx box as to where the new cable boss wants to be.

As to oil on the clutch that's what I've been suffering from with my Atlas just now, it has a Commando clutch and belt drive and has been getting gear oil on the plates which then stick together making gearchanges horrible, last night I attempted my own seal solution (being from Yorkshire I hate spending when I don't have to)

So I got a spare clutch nut and brazed a washer on with a 1/4" clearance hole in it, got a piece of 1/4" rubber and punched a 1/4" hole in it (of course being rubber the hole is smaller than 1/4") trimmed this until it fitted the nut and then fitted to the mainshaft end with Loctite so it was just nipping the rubber, the future will tell whether this has worked, if not I shall have to buy one, Norvil do them for the Commando and Dommi as they're not the same.
 
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Oldhaven

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British Cycle supply has the clutch pushrod seal and I will be using one from them on my project. They ship this part out of Canada even though their main warehouse is at Limestone in Maine. That may help you with shipping.
This page has a lot of good information about its use, though I see Martyn has already referenced it.

And thanks for the good information on the lifter lever since I know what to look for if my lever effort is too much. I am also using a Commando gearbox that had a diaphragm clutch with a Newby clutch.
 
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Cyborg

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I seem to have strayed onto a Norton Forum. I'll get the hang of computers one day. Cheers, Stu.

Consider yourself lucky you have been spared most of the frame discussions. You would need to poke the unwatch button or risk ocular trauma.

I did wonder about this thread belonging in the everything else section, but this thing started innocently enough when I mumbled something to Robert about having a set of cases and two crank halves. He offered me a crank pin for cheap and the rest is history. I now suspect he was setting me up.
 
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Cyborg

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VOC Member
British Cycle supply has the clutch pushrod seal and I will be using one from them on my project. They ship this part out of Canada even though their main warehouse is at Limestone in Maine. That may help you with shipping.
This page has a lot of good information about its use, though I see Martyn has already referenced it.

And thanks for the good information on the lifter lever since I know what to look for if my lever effort is too much. I am also using a Commando gearbox that had a diaphragm clutch with a Newby clutch.

I've been wondering about one of those pushrod seals. I don't currently have much room between the end of the mainshaft and the Newby adjuster. The pushrod doesn't have a lot of stickout. I could shim the clutch out if necessary, but may just take a stab at making a seal holder. There is already a shim in there because the hub doesn't sit all the way home on the splines. I could PM you a photo so as not to cause any of that ocular trauma I was referring to. Do they have a smartass emoji?
 

Oldhaven

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VOC Member
I just measured mine and the BCS seal will add .100" to the end of the mainshaft, so if you have 1/8" of rod stickout you are OK.
 
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