E: Engine Comet Mongrel

Cyborg

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I also thought about just buying the glass and making my own. Maybe its a goofy idea, but it might be nice to incorporate it into the top of the fuel tank somehow. Don't think another 12" of return line would aggravate anything. Engine has valve seals and new style rocker feed bolts, so shouldn't be a problem.

 

vibrac

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I would think a tell tail plunger as in the Triumph timing cover would be best assuming the Vincent pump has enough energy to lift a gram .of alloy . I think a sight glass would be difficult to see after a bit.
 

ericg

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I also thought about just buying the glass and making my own. Maybe its a goofy idea, but it might be nice to incorporate it into the top of the fuel tank somehow. Don't think another 12" of return line would aggravate anything. Engine has valve seals and new style rocker feed bolts, so shouldn't be a problem.

I've used a short length of clear hose on the return line as per Egli practice, I can see it while riding.
It keeps my mind in peace as I have a Conway valve on the feed line and I'd have no clue if it fails until disaster. I check oil circulation when I start the engine.
 

Cyborg

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I have a couple of those plungers. NOS Norton, but they are fairly long and look like they would be annoying to modify. Perhaps the Triumph ones are more compact. The idea behind the sight glass was to be able to see what's going on while riding, If it was a plunger that tripped a switch, then an idiot light mounted between the gauges would do. I haven't looked around, but assume that pump would only register around 3psi give or take depending on temperature?
 

Oldhaven

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I have an Egli style return on the DD frame I am working on and I found a reinforced clear polyurethane tubing called Urebrade for it. It is UV and oil resistant and good for 175F temps. The braid helps keep it from collapsing. The only problem is you have to buy 10 feet at $1.24/ft for 1/4 ID and $1.97/ft for 3/8 ID. Since you are doing the frame and fuel and oil tanks your own way anyway you could probably find a way to put it in rider's sight in the return line.

26063
 

Cyborg

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Right now making an alloy fuel tank seems like even more of a daunting task. The oil tank has been TIG welded together with just the drain bung so far. Unfortunately the outside face of the tank is slightly concave. The original thought was to have it convex (similar to an older Triumph tank), but for simplicity and expediency just decided to leave it flat. It was during the welding process that it became slightly concave.... so now back to the original plan. The interesting part is that there is no room on the sides or the back of the tank for expansion because of frame tubes and suspension. Can't expand outwards anywhere but on the front or it will no longer fit.
 

chankly bore

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Is water under a little pressure a possible solution? I only ask because I have recently seen a beautiful tapered Honda exhaust made this way. It started off as two seam welded bits of plate. The maker used a high pressure washer, probably more pressure than you'd need.
 

stu spalding

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Hi Bill, it only takes about 5 psi to start the 2 sides of a Vin tank spreading. Best to fit the distance piece at the rear and something through the front mounts. Years ago I saw someone walking away from a garage airline with a balloon that had once been a Kawasaki petrol tank! Cheers, Stu.
 
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