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E: Engine Comet Mongrel



Flo

Website User
VOC Member
The Otto-engine (SI or Crossley-engine for patriots) makes its best power around lambda = 0.85 and its lowest specific fuel consumption around lambda a= 1.1. Running modern engines as close as possible stoichiometric i.e lambda = 1 is due to the conversion efficiency of the catalytic converters for three exhaust gas components (hence the tag three way).
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Anybody playing with the 30mm Mk 2 Amal Carb', I have found the pilot range goes well into the slide range.
And one size weaker slide , Can kill it stone dead !, Much more so than any other Carb' I have played with.
Cheers Bill.
 

erik

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
@Graham Smith thank you .this is the way i fitted the Lambda sonde.only for temporary use. i fit the Instrument on the handlebar using the ram Mount ball of my sat-nav. Pictures will follow.regards Erik
 
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Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I see from the label on the back of the gauge that it is a wide band sensor. What brand is the gauge and are you happy with the way it works?
 

erik

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
i Mount the System for the first time and had not started the engine for driving because i had no time or it was to cold for me.but as soon the conditions will be fine i will try the System.the make i will post later because my motorcycle mate has bought the System with me together.he has a zündapp ks 600 flattwin with two Systems because he has twin carbs.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Found out that the exhaust fan needs a little more grunt to extricate the overspray and fumes so as to maintain the blissful peace and harmony in the household.Swingarm paint 2.jpg
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Thank you..... this is version 2.0 not quite what I wanted, but felt the need to move along. The first go was a little shorter and was supposed to have eccentric chain adjusters, but got a little ahead of myself and welded the arms and cross braces together before I welded on the round sections for the adjusters. Of course they warped slightly and then I had no way to true them up because it wouldn't fit in the mill. This one above is from a BMW 650, and just needed the swingarm pivots trimmed, another cross tube to support the added shock mount, chain guide, bushings, and some tabs rearranged. I've since replaced the cross slide on the lathe, so could fix the other one by bolting it onto the new slide, but setup would be painful and spring is approaching.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
In keeping with my habit of turning newly assembled engines over by hand, I discovered that the intake adjuster nut was just coming in contact with the ET24 inspection cap. The cap is new from Coventry and I believe they are the same from VOC spares. The new caps are machined differently and have less clearance than the originals. This probably doesn't happen very often, but thought I would mention it. A 5 7/8 pushrod might have cured it as there was a 5 15/16 in there, but it wouldn't have left any room for taking up clearance (the adjuster would have to be turned almost all the way in. I chucked the cap in the lathe and removed some material with a boring bar and cleaned out a bit more with a Dremel. Also took a few thousandths off the top of the adjuster and rummaged around and found a inspection cap gasket that was .040" thinner. The first photo shows the old style cap ..... the area in question is concave and the new cap is just cut on an angle (beveled) between the black and red mark. Mk2 cams and decent vale seats. #fettle
Is this unusual or am I missing something?
 

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Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
In keeping with my habit of turning newly assembled engines over by hand, I discovered that the intake adjuster nut was just coming in contact with the ET24 inspection cap. The cap is new from Coventry and I believe they are the same from VOC spares. The new caps are machined differently and have less clearance than the originals. This probably doesn't happen very often, but thought I would mention it. A 5 7/8 pushrod might have cured it as there was a 5 15/16 in there, but it wouldn't have left any room for taking up clearance (the adjuster would have to be turned almost all the way in. I chucked the cap in the lathe and removed some material with a boring bar and cleaned out a bit more with a Dremel. Also took a few thousandths off the top of the adjuster and rummaged around and found a inspection cap gasket that was .040" thinner. The first photo shows the old style cap ..... the area in question is concave and the new cap is just cut on an angle (beveled) between the black and red mark. Mk2 cams and decent vale seats. #fettle
Is this unusual or am I missing something?
It's the same with Old Bikes and Old caps, Ron and me have just done a Twin, For a Friend of Ron's, We had to swap pushrods around, But still I had to grind the top off and make 2 flats at the top, To turn the adjusters.
There are Special adjusters you can buy now, To fix the problem.
We should all make sure we keep the same pushrods, adjusters, followers, etc in the same place as we take them off, When doing work on our Bikes. Cheers Bill.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
It's the same with Old Bikes and Old caps, Ron and me have just done a Twin, For a Friend of Ron's, We had to swap pushrods around, But still I had to grind the top off and make 2 flats at the top, To turn the adjusters.
There are Special adjusters you can buy now, To fix the problem.
We should all make sure we keep the same pushrods, adjusters, followers, etc in the same place as we take them off, When doing work on our Bikes. Cheers Bill.
I did wonder about those adjusters listed on VOC Spares, but wasn't sure they would be any shorter. It seems "fettling" is the preferred route these days. Pretty much everything I order ends up sitting in customs for a month or more. I might have got away with just machining the new cap and a thinner washer, but took some off the adjuster just so there is a little more room when things start thrashing about. I also wondered about the bushel of inspection cap gaskets I have. I don't know their history and they are about .134" thick and as mentioned, I was able to find one hiding in a box that was .040 thinner so used that.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
We have checked a lot of Caps, Old ones, And no 2 seem the same, We didn't have time to send off for the new Adjusters, And I have done this mod' on my bikes for many years.
I think it comes down to the fact that these Bikes are hand built ?.
If a new spare part was good for one Bike, It might not for another, That goes for all parts.
Cheers Bill.
 

MartynG

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I did wonder about those adjusters listed on VOC Spares, but wasn't sure they would be any shorter. It seems "fettling" is the preferred route these days. Pretty much everything I order ends up sitting in customs for a month or more. I might have got away with just machining the new cap and a thinner washer, but took some off the adjuster just so there is a little more room when things start thrashing about. I also wondered about the bushel of inspection cap gaskets I have. I don't know their history and they are about .134" thick and as mentioned, I was able to find one hiding in a box that was .040 thinner so used that.
I would have expected a THICKER washer to give more 'head' room inside the cap.
 


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