Comet ESA

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I hate to repeat myself but look at my response above. Assemble it without the springs first and you will see where the outer end of the nut ends up in relation to the end of the mainshaft. It has to go that far and then be tightened. Different nuts and different manufacturers of mainshafts mean that photos will not tell you how yours should look. Use the little grey cells as well as a long spanner and strong arms This, together with Loctite and locking wire, means you should be alright.
 

petermb998

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Peter
Do NOT use loctite.
You will live to regret it when you have to take the shock absorber off.
As you have been adviced tighten fully and wire lock the nut.


regards Peter Bromberg
 

clevtrev

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Consider also, that if it is not tight, the crank will be floating around inside the case, and then you`ll have another mess to sort.
 

ogrilp400

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Description

G'day Peter,
The nut does up tight against the washer PD8 which does up tight against PD4. Unless someone has shortened PD4 there will be a gap of approximately 5/16". timetraveller has it right.
Can Len explain why its not a good idea to turn PD5 around?. But he is right that the nut is not that substantial that there hasn't been examples that have parted.
Go ahead and use Loctite, there are many strenghts and so long as you don't use any of the higher grades it will come undone. Lockwire as well if you like.

Phelps.
 

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
With the Comet there is a spacer between the outer main bearing and the engine sprocket. The Twin lacks this spacer and therefore the nut will be flush with the end of the mainshaft. Accordingly, the nut on the 500cc models appears to be only part way on. Having said that, some early Twin D/S mainshafts had short threads. Be careful with the grade of Loctite you use; too strong a grade will make subsequent dismantling very difficult. I recall Jack Barker telling me of a case where someone had used Loctiite on a Twin clutch nut which defeated all normal methods of removal including heat so he had to resort to drilling lots of holes in it and breaking it up.
 

Tom Gaynor

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Loctite

Recently I read that Loctite, in practical terms, slackens off at about 100 deg C. Pouring boiling water over it should be enough. Guess what? It's true. Try it. Or faff about wiring, risking the laughter of racers, who all use Loctite. OK, and who wire it too, just to be sure...
(Top tuning tip: if you wire it up with a SLACK wire, and on subsequent inspection you find the locking wire TIGHT, then you know it is trying to slacken, and you need to use Loctite. Where did I learn this? By examining a works MV.

Now I use a hot-air gun (currently on sale in Lidl at £9.99, and one of the great bargains of the century). Not only can I slacken Loctite, but I can shrink heat-shrink sleeving without setting fire to the bike.
And if you don't like Loctite, don't go on aeroplanes. They're held together with Loctite.
Peter
Do NOT use loctite.
You will live to regret it when you have to take the shock absorber off.
As you have been adviced tighten fully and wire lock the nut.


regards Peter Bromberg
 
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