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Comet ESA

Piston Pete

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hi All .

I am in the process of reassembling the chaincase and primary drive on my humble Comet , in advance of the anticipated arrival of my Conway clutch .Bob Dunn repaired the chaincase ('tis a work of art now) ,and I am about to reassemble the ESA (with new springs).Reading the various bits of information ,I am unclear as to how far to tighten the ESA nut .Some recommend fully tightening the nut up -but surely this will lead to the ESA springs being ineffective ? Is there a recommended measurement between the outer plate and the body of the ESA . A previous owner has lockwired the outer nut ,and I will do the same.

Any advice ?:)
 

nkt267

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
The springs won't be coil bound when you tighten every thing up.If you dont tighten it properly it can undo and try to bore it's way out of the chaincase.John
 

Comet Rider

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Comet ESA's

Hi Peter,

Definately do the ESA nut up tight, fully home. If you run it even slightly loose it will come loose and try to bore its way out:mad:

On both my dads Comet and mine we have flipped the spring retaining washer, so that any movement of the ESA does not put any sideways thrust on the springs, which can break them.

Best of luck
Neil
 

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Yes, John is quite right, it must be really tight. Some people have suggested the PD5 Ring Plate should be fitted with the smooth side facing the springs. Not a good idea; The recesses that locate the springs are there for a purpose. I use a BSA fork tube nut spanner (from SRM) to tighten the ESA nut. It's a flat single hex tool of the right size so, armed with a copper faced hammer,you can get it really tight just like the old Villiers flywheel. No need to sprag the primary drive, just put the plug(s) in and work against compression. (Waits for horror-struck response)
 

John Cone

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I thought an inch drive impact gun would be suffice, bearing in mind one has to have access to a decent compressor.
 

deejay499

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hi all. I thread some nylon rope into the bore with the piston down to lock the engine, and do the nut up with a good socket and bar, then wire lock as well. I would recommend everyone wire lock theirs. DJ
 

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I thought an inch drive impact gun would be suffice, bearing in mind one has to have access to a decent compressor.
Yes, no doubt that would do the job, but there have been instances where the hexagon has parted with the rest of the nut and left the rider with no drive. If in doubt, invest in a new nut!
 

Piston Pete

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Wow ,what a response. Thanks everyone - I now understand that the nut must be really tight !! , but thats quite a variable measure!! ,does anyone have any recommendation as to the amount of thread that should be showing on the inside of the outer nut ,eg it should be tightened intill the threaded inner is flush with the hex nut? any photos of riders current set up would be appreciated .I should have photographed mine before I removed it ,but alas I didnt . :( I will be using locktite ,and it will be lockwired into position after I have tightened it .
 
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