Clutch shaft lockup problem

VinParts

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Plug the supplier time.

Don't forget the spares company when buying spares.
if you are a member of the voc you could qualify for a discount for spares
which you do not from other suppliers.


Just do the sums:rolleyes:

I know of one supplier that stays up till about midnight most nights emailing back his customers after they have asked him a question about a problem that they are having :D

Russ

PS. Alan, have you taken the gearbox out yet just to make sure that the gears are all in there :D
 

aljobo

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hello Russell,
I have been setting up the gearchange mechanism following the handbook process. The gears all seem to be there, doing their job. I'm reluctant to start yet another project-within-a-project at the moment.
Best regards,
Allan
 

aljobo

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hello John,
Following up the PD21 spacer issue, I replaced it yesterday and checked that the shaft wasn't binding. It runs easily now, so that's one less problem. Thankyou!
Follow-up question. The output shaft seems to be able to move in and out quite a lot (100 thou?). Is this another spacer issue inside the box? What end float should there be on the shaft?
Luckily, I'm going to replace the screws on the endplate anyway (to wire the two recommended screws, and maybe the rest) so I can remove the plate and look inside that side of the box without removing the drive side gubbins.
Any further help welcomed.
Regards,
Allan
 

john998

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Clutch

Hello Allan,
The end float is set by a spacer E76 in the gearbox between the constant mesh pinion G6 and the input bearing. It is not critical, as the nut on the output sprocket holds the hollow shaft over to one side and the clutch nut holds G6 over to the other. As long as there is movement before those nuts are in place, to allow oil into the bushes of the hollow shaft.
A tenth of an inch should be OK, the only caveat is that if the constant mesh pinion is too far over to the clutch side, this will effect the depth of engagement of top gear.
As far as looking inside the box goes, the lay shaft will almost certainly fall out and you will be stuck with a tricky job. The only thing you have to remove on the gear change side is the kick start mechanism, held by one cir-clip. It is possible to assemble the gearbox without removing the cam plate spindle. Wire all the bolts and the selector paul hex on the gear box end plate.
On an different note I shall be missing for a while as I am going to the Hever Rally. Regards John.
 

aljobo

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks John,
Discretion is the better part of valour!
I'll leave things as they are, simply replacing screws and wiring them. I'm changing the primary chain at the same time.
Have a good rally!
Regards,
Allan
 
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