Clutch issue

b'knighted

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Much more information than I could give. I've downloaded a copy for future reference.

Does anyone know of a 34 or 36mm Mk1 concentric (possibly a 1000 series) that I could buy for my big Comet. It is running a 34mm Mikuni but I want single float carb with a tickler rather than a cold start enrichment device.
 

kurtflys

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Yes it only has 12K miles and I have about 10 mies on it right now. The carbs and ignition are not original but most everything else is. I looked inside the clutch housing yesterday and the clutch is also original. I'm just trying not to brake anything while I figure things out. Yesterday after my 5 mile ride the engine seemed to make funny metallic noises, and the exhaust valve lever became harder to pull. Now when I pull the lever and kick her thru I hear a noise I had not noticed, and again sounded like metal on metal. I don't want to be one of those guys that distroys his bike because he didn't pay attention to what the bike was saying, and missed some tidbit of information that caused major problems. So I guess I'm just being a little over cautious .
 

Holger

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Kurt

I am probably going to start a major stir now.. but...

Is it your intention to ride your Shadow often and as hard as it can be ridden? Or do you intend to keep it as a low mileage original machine?
 

Mark Fisher

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View attachment 1967
I tried to do what the operators manual said . Here is a picture of the the side of the bike and the screw I took out is just above the side stand, and below the foot brake.
Kurt
Kurt, forgive me if I have misunderstood you, but the screw (bolt) you are talking about is the level plug on the primary chaincase which obviously is meant to have oil in it, however if you drain oil out with the bike on the side stand the level could end up being too low. There isn't an actual drain plug fitted as standard but the oil in there probably needs changing and filling to the correct level as you really don't want your primary chain running dry. Usually if you loosen all the chaincase screws and tap the case with a rubber hammer all the oil will come out, in the messiest possible way! You may find just dirty old oil comes out or you may get oil and bits of metal which means you're going to have to take everything off and inspect. Assuming all is well tighten up the chaincase screws and refill with suitable oil until it comes out of the hole for the level plug with the bike vertical. Your gasket may or may not survive this. The circular domed cover behind the footrest should be bone dry otherwise the clutch (assuming it's a Vincent clutch) will slip. If there was oil in the clutch chamber brake cleaner will shift it, but more than likely the oil will return. Stopping oil getting into the clutch is a whole other can of worms and if I were you I'd try and get help from someone in your local section, could save you a lot of hassle.
good luck
mark
 

kurtflys

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I have other British bike to ride so she will get taken for a spin once a month, for perhaps 50 miles or more if I have an event to go to. But I only ride about 1500 mile each year total so none of my bikes get ridden hard but they all get ridden. (except the Arial SQ4 she is in the Din ).
 

b'knighted

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Hi Kurt,

That's just not good enough.
We have a new section member who wrote off his Triumph, breaking his ankle in the process on the day that he was told his Vincent tank was ready for collection. This was at the end of April. He had to revise his plans as kickstarting remains out of the question for months to come, so he ordered an electric start kit and eventually got the bike running and on the road about six weeks ago. Despite having his mag fail on his second ride he has already done 1200 miles.

Adopting best Punch and Judy voice, I quote" That’s the way to do it"
 

kurtflys

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That's a great help. I will try that slide adjustment today. I did lube the throttle cables yesterday but they were very smooth and easy to move ,so I think the are alright .. Would love to have gotten the carbs off the bike but it is impossible to get at the nuts on the back of the carb and manifold without taking the tank off. Unless you guys have some special tools. I could not get a shorty wrench in there and I doubt a thin wall socket would fit either. Was not sure how complicated it was to remove the tank so I just cleaned out the float bowls and things were fine but it was a little dirty in there. I'll wait for a rainy day and pull the tank. I'd like to see what else is there and check for corrosion .
Thanks Kurt
 

Martyn Goodwin

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That's a great help. I will try that slide adjustment today. I did lube the throttle cables yesterday but they were very smooth and easy to move ,so I think the are alright .. Would love to have gotten the carbs off the bike but it is impossible to get at the nuts on the back of the carb and manifold without taking the tank off. Unless you guys have some special tools. I could not get a shorty wrench in there and I doubt a thin wall socket would fit either. Was not sure how complicated it was to remove the tank so I just cleaned out the float bowls and things were fine but it was a little dirty in there. I'll wait for a rainy day and pull the tank. I'd like to see what else is there and check for corrosion .
Thanks Kurt
Removing the tank is not difficult BUT you MUST remove the seat first. Seat = 3 bolts; 2 at the back and a long one at the front. To remove the tank disconnect the fuel lines (its a good idea to drain the tank at this stage) then there are 2 bolts at the rear and 2 at the front; there should also be a tie bolt under the tank, at the rear. Now you just lift the tank off - of course, you need to remove the oil tank filler cap.
 

timetraveller

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Sorry to disagree MartynG but one does not have to remove the seat. Removing the front bolt only allows the seat to move rearwards (assuming standard ‘B’/’C’ fitting) and provided that the spring boxes and rear mudguard are protected with a piece of thick cloth (folded towel) then no damage will occur. Removal, and replacement, of the tank is a pig and in my opinion the tank fixing is one of the worst pieces of design on a Vincent. It is true that if one drops the plot and it goes bouncing down the road the tank will stay in place but compared with either strap fixing or one bolt fixing as used on some other bikes of the era it is not easy for a first timer. Removal is bad enough with having to get at the quarter inch nuts, and the tube, under the rear of the tank but replacement of both the two front stepped bolts and the rear tube, and stud, below the tank rear is tricky. Kurtflys seems to be on the steep part of the learning curve and my recommendation is to do it with plenty of time and patience at hand. Lubricate the two front stepped bolts and their rubbers at the front and make sure that they can be screwed in with fingers and a tube spanner a few turns before using force as it is all too easy to cross these threads. The rear tube and stud is just a matter of patience but for a first timer it is tricky to ensure that the tube is in square (I file a slight ramp onto less than half of one diameter at one end of the tube to ensure that it can be started without having to force it) and one has to ensure that the rear mounting rubbers are thick enough so that the tube clears the rear valve spring cap. For those who have done it many times before and know what has to be done it is just a matter of patience but for a first timer it is not an easy job.
 
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