Misc: Everything Else Cleaning upper frame member

[Spqreddie]

Series B,C and D Parts

*****We stock all Vincent spares A,B,C,D. Call or email for prices***** Below are just some of the specialist parts we make. Give us a call and let us help keep you on the road. We can also ship wo…

conway-motors.co.uk

 

[timetraveller]

One thing to note if you decide to fit it yourself; and from my own experience with my home made but similar looking system, if one welds or brazes the outer ring to the top of the tank one needs a tap of the correct size to clean up the internal thread as they distort during the welding process. I assume that Conways have the correct tap. In my case I designed the thread to be the same as the exhaust ports and inspection caps so that if you had to buy a tap it could be used for more than one purpose.

 

[Comet Rider]

Hi Norman,
The Conway's manhole is indeed the same thread.
I silver soldered my fitting into the UFM without distortion

Neil

 

[Herman-Handlebars]

Is there any compromise to structural rigidity of the UFM? As it's a stressed member and under more load during racing like navigating the mountain at Cadwell, could it become a weak link?

 

[timetraveller]

Brazing or silver soldering would be the best. Note that the hole being made is circular which is the best shape for not concentrating stressed. However, the alternative which is held by four screws on a flat flange and some adhesive has been used on a road bike for many years since that was done. Mark, posting #9 above, has just made some to my drawings with some modification. He has now put six screws into the flange rather than four. Picture below. Regarding fracturing of the UFM, note that many of these have been used for decades with sidecars attached but I do know of one racer who has fractured two of them He races a single but revs to 8,000 rpm

 

[erik]

I have a pair of thread drills for exhaust / inspection cover threads.Very heavy.

 

[Richard_KAR_223]

Any hints on how to best clean the sludge out of the upper frame member while still attached to the front forks?

Best regards,

Richard Gibson
Rockford, IL, USA

No I’m of the opinion that it’s best removed. Then I have had good results using a cement mixer you strap the tank in securely with long zip ties.Then after all orifices are blocked pour a known number of screws of a inch long, not too small into the tank together with paraffin.
leave this lot to go round and round for half an hour then the same with the cap removed. Remove the tank and shake making sure all the screws are out and then put in a pint off thinners and see how clear it all is, then leave to dry out.
Unless others have a better idea it works a treat and it’s what I had to hand. The idea of the thinners is that it evaporates a treat.

 

[Richard_KAR_223]

I use a cement mixer ! Block all the holes up in the tank, pour in a known number of screws of say an inch long, half a gallon of paraffin.
Zip tie it securely and let the mixer go round for half an hour then remove cap until all the screws are out Which takes another fifteen minutes.
Then put a goodly amount of thinners into the tank and this comes out fairly clean when it’s emptied. This will evaporate quite quickly and leaves a very clean tank.

 

[craig]

I use a cement mixer ! Block all the holes up in the tank, pour in a known number of screws of say an inch long, half a gallon of paraffin.
Zip tie it securely and let the mixer go round for half an hour then remove cap until all the screws are out Which takes another fifteen minutes.
Then put a goodly amount of thinners into the tank and this comes out fairly clean when it’s emptied. This will evaporate quite quickly and leaves a very clean tank.

Thanks Richard, Do you have a photo of this zip tied UFM to the mixer please?
Probably I could rent a mixer at a local equipment renter.
Is this UFM strapped inside or outside?
Thanks
Craig

 

[craig]

The problem I see is convincing results due to the design of the oil outlet standpipe..