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Misc: Everything Else Cleaning upper frame member

Dynamiteboss

Website User
VOC Member
Any hints on how to best clean the sludge out of the upper frame member while still attached to the front forks?

Best regards,

Richard Gibson
Rockford, IL, USA
 

Peter Holmes

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I would not recommend it, there is just to much risk of potentially dislodging debris that has built up over 70 years, but not actually getting all that debris out of the tank, then there is a good chance that some of that debris will find its way into the lubrication system and wreck your engine, it is simply not worth the risk, plus removing the forks is not a particularly difficult job.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
This was all discussed a week or two ago and I posted the design of an inspection/cleaning hole for the top of the oil tank. You will not do this properly unless you remove the UFM from the rest of the bike so that you can shake it about to clean it and even then you will probably need to make, or buy, an inspection hole modification.
 

Dynamiteboss

Website User
VOC Member
I would not recommend it, there is just to much risk of potentially dislodging debris that has built up over 70 years, but not actually getting all that debris out of the tank, then there is a good chance that some of that debris will find its way into the lubrication system and wreck your engine, it is simply not worth the risk, plus removing the forks is not a particularly difficult job.
Thank you Peter,
I have already started “fiddling” with cleaning it, so I need to proceed. I have soaked the UFM with kerosene for a week, agitated the kerosene using a long spring, and drained the resultant crud. I have done this several times, and plan to do it several more. My feelings (hopes?) are that the screen in the tank (currently removed) will keep any big pieces of crud from getting into circulation, with the oil filter then doing its job before the oil is sent on to bearings etc. I inspect the crud after draining, and to date haven’t found any grit or large metal particles. This is an old unrestored bike, last operated in the late 1980’s, that I am trying to coax back to life for occasional weekend use. 623586F7-37A8-4A4D-BA34-89B23AED9B3F.jpeg
 

Dynamiteboss

Website User
VOC Member
This was all discussed a week or two ago and I posted the design of an inspection/cleaning hole for the top of the oil tank. You will not do this properly unless you remove the UFM from the rest of the bike so that you can shake it about to clean it and even then you will probably need to make, or buy, an inspection hole modification.
Thank you Timetraveler,
I looked up your posts. (Didn’t know I could that.) I‘m new to the Vincent world and newer yet to VOC forms. Very nice work on the inspection hole. Put my name on the list if you are having a batch made up.

Best regards,
Richard Gibson
 
Last edited by a moderator:

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Thank you Richard. One chap has already made his own from my drawings and I have asked him if he is prepared to make any more. I could get them made but I would probably have to get ten made as they would be CNCd. You, plus one chap in the USA means that two would be sold. Let us see if anyone else is interested.
 

Dynamiteboss

Website User
VOC Member
Thank you Richard. One chap has already made his own from my drawings and I have asked him if he is prepared to make any more. I could get them made but I would probably have to get ten made as they would be CNCd. You, plus one chap in the USA means that two would be sold. Let us see if anyone else is interested.
I am in no hurry. I would buy it for future use, for when I have time to properly dissemble the bike.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
For those who would like an inspection/cleaning port then please contact Mark on chark_mandler@yahoo.co.uk He has just made one of his own and two spares so he is the man who will make them for you. One thing to note is that Mark has chosen to fit two holes in the top of the screw in plug, rather than the slot to take the K1. It is intended that using two dowels in the holes might allow one to apply more force if some time in the distant future the plug has to be removed. I still like the K1 slot but each to his own. Please contact Mark direct.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I think you would have to be very carful with that gadget. It will not get in all the corners and it might damage the tube which goes to the rear chain oiler and is sometimes right at the top of the oil tank and at others times right at the bottom. Just saying!
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The place which is really difficult to get at unless, one does as you have, is right at the back and bottom of the tank where there is a sort of sump where the outlet connectors are. Main oil feed out and chain oiler out.
 

Dynamiteboss

Website User
VOC Member
Thank you for the diagram. It answers some questions I had about the gauze filter shroud.

Can the lower banjo fitting on the oil feed line be modified to improve oil flow? I have heard that the holes in the fitting can be opened up, but I don’t know by how much.

Richard Gibson
 

Black Flash

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have cleaned my ufm strapping it to a cement mixer, filled with diesel an a handful of nuts and bolts. It's been cleaned out 4 times and rumbled on for the best part of 8 hours in total changing the tilt many times.
I believe I rinsed it at least 5 times but never achieved a perfectly clean state as I could still scrape some crud of the metal with a long screwdriver.
Fitted a manhole cover, filled it with wheel cleaner stuff at a local car wash to the brim. Let it work for 15 minutes and then in with the hot jet washer for a total of maybe 3 minutes.
You could now eat out of it.

Cheers Bernd
 

Ken Tidswell

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Any hints on how to best clean the sludge out of the upper frame member while still attached to the front forks?

Best regards,

Richard Gibson
Rockford, IL, USA
If you insist on cleaning the tank out, Life then becomes far more easier if you detach the tank fom the front end by removing the 6? bolds holding it to tht front of the bike.take out the two connectors at the rear of the tank. you can use lots of degreaser to soften the junk in the oil tank,and a pressure washer and keep going untill you are satisfied it is clean. Dry out the tank using heat and refit the chain oiler and the mail feed with new washers. It is a filthy job and you can make a lot of mess every where. I speak from experience. then refit it to the head stock.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Re #15 above. The restriction in the oil flow can be caused by the cut off valve which is fitted into the oil feed in order to allow the pipe to be removed from the tank without draining the oil. You can just remove that valve and then you have the whole inner diameter of the connectors and tubes to allow oil to flow. When you have it all apart it is worth while checking that when the oil pipe is inserted into the tank fitting that the valve is pushed fully up and that the holes in the valve are fully open. The thing to think about is that the lower end of the main feed pipe interfaces to a banjo bolt which has four rather small holes and their total area is likely to be less than the internal area of the pipe.
 

Dynamiteboss

Website User
VOC Member
Re #15 above. The restriction in the oil flow can be caused by the cut off valve which is fitted into the oil feed in order to allow the pipe to be removed from the tank without draining the oil. You can just remove that valve and then you have the whole inner diameter of the connectors and tubes to allow oil to flow. When you have it all apart it is worth while checking that when the oil pipe is inserted into the tank fitting that the valve is pushed fully up and that the holes in the valve are fully open. The thing to think about is that the lower end of the main feed pipe interfaces to a banjo bolt which has four rather small holes and their total area is likely to be less than the internal area of the pipe.
Yes, the banjo bolt at the lower end of the main oil feed line, I have heard of people drilling the holes bigger, but how much bigger?

And good point about simply removing the needle in the valve at the upper end of the feed line. I don’t see much point in the valve. Simply drain the oil if I need to work in that area.
 

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