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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cellulose paint & transfers
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<blockquote data-quote="peterg" data-source="post: 9169" data-attributes="member: 446"><p>Howdy Dave,</p><p> </p><p>The most prolific painter of Vin tanks in the U.S. has his transfers done in vinyl. The problem with water slide transfers and solvent reaction is not the transfer itself but its adhesive. </p><p> </p><p>Back when I shot my Red Rap tank below, I completely washed all the adhesives off my decals, trimmed back the clear edges almost to the color, adhered with watered down Elmer's glue and squigee'd them firmly. I then lightly heated the inside of the tank through the neck with a heat gun and then laid down one or two quick light wet coats of <a href="http://www.automotiveart.com/products/paints/glasuritspecs.pdf" target="_blank">BASF/Glassurit's</a> 21 line catalyzed enamel which flashed quickly resulting in no lifting. It's solvent dwell time during flash-off that kills these decals. Laying down dust coats can be risky in that you may experience clouding in these areas and applying your final wets generally chemically engages anything beneath it anyway and thus the lifting risk remains.</p><p> </p><p>As we yanks sometimes use branding references to activities, I reckon "lacquering" might be a reference to vehicle orienting painting - as opposed to household - and y'all may very well be using enamel?? Hope so, lacquer never "cures" per se and being anywhere near a heat source (like your engine) will mean continual shifting with every heat cycle resulting in gloss flattening and evidence of lining from underlayer (body filler) shifting. It's solvent resistence is nil, you'll note it immediately turns to a liquid when wiped with anything even as benign as Brake Clean compared to enamel which may just peel back from the surface.</p><p> </p><p>For the effort expended in lining and decals, if there was any piece on a Vin you'd want to go to the trouble of CE paints, it's your fuel tank. I just returned from the first AMCA meet of the season in Florida in which many there had their first introduction to 10% plus ethanol formulated fuel and it was tragic for some on our Road Run who inadvertantly splashed any on the faces of their tanks if not painted with CE. </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>[ATTACH=full]23276[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peterg, post: 9169, member: 446"] Howdy Dave, The most prolific painter of Vin tanks in the U.S. has his transfers done in vinyl. The problem with water slide transfers and solvent reaction is not the transfer itself but its adhesive. Back when I shot my Red Rap tank below, I completely washed all the adhesives off my decals, trimmed back the clear edges almost to the color, adhered with watered down Elmer's glue and squigee'd them firmly. I then lightly heated the inside of the tank through the neck with a heat gun and then laid down one or two quick light wet coats of [URL="http://www.automotiveart.com/products/paints/glasuritspecs.pdf"]BASF/Glassurit's[/URL] 21 line catalyzed enamel which flashed quickly resulting in no lifting. It's solvent dwell time during flash-off that kills these decals. Laying down dust coats can be risky in that you may experience clouding in these areas and applying your final wets generally chemically engages anything beneath it anyway and thus the lifting risk remains. As we yanks sometimes use branding references to activities, I reckon "lacquering" might be a reference to vehicle orienting painting - as opposed to household - and y'all may very well be using enamel?? Hope so, lacquer never "cures" per se and being anywhere near a heat source (like your engine) will mean continual shifting with every heat cycle resulting in gloss flattening and evidence of lining from underlayer (body filler) shifting. It's solvent resistence is nil, you'll note it immediately turns to a liquid when wiped with anything even as benign as Brake Clean compared to enamel which may just peel back from the surface. For the effort expended in lining and decals, if there was any piece on a Vin you'd want to go to the trouble of CE paints, it's your fuel tank. I just returned from the first AMCA meet of the season in Florida in which many there had their first introduction to 10% plus ethanol formulated fuel and it was tragic for some on our Road Run who inadvertantly splashed any on the faces of their tanks if not painted with CE. [ATTACH=full]23276[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cellulose paint & transfers
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