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E: Engine Cam thrust washer E95...

Bobv07662

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Getting ready to button up the timing chest. What is the correct order to assemble the cams and steady plate in relation to the shims and washers?. I assembled it this way, first an E95 washer, the cam, another E95 washer, then an ET98/1 washer, then the steady plate and finally the locknut. I ended up with .007" endplay.

Am I good to go?
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I don't think moving the cam pinions out by 0.030" will have any negative effect on the large idler or any other part of the cam drive gear train. Just add the shim behind the cam, checking cam to follower fit with bearing blue.
I don’t think it will either, but logic does not always prevail when it comes to this sort of thing. A .030 misalignment will likely cause night sweats.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Well... turns out the parts diagram I was working from is an older version that does not show the ET173/1 shim that goes on the idler shaft. If I a shim behind the idler, I can move the idler out .015 So that leaves the cam pinions off by .015 relative to the idler. Assuming I don’t need a thrust washer between the idler and the ET173. They list the ET173 as a thrust washer so should be hard enough for the job.

Rip (as well as others) mention needing a minimum of .015” end float on the timed breather (everything else .004 to .008”). This has a series D breather, so what is normally a timed breather is actually just a small idler running on a bronze bushing the same size as what the earlier breather would be. Given bronze expands at a lower rate, I’m assuming .012“ end float is sufficient.
 

Bobv07662

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I don’t think it will either, but logic does not always prevail when it comes to this sort of thing. A .030 misalignment will likely cause night sweats.
Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier on this. With the extra shim behind the cam all the gears aligned quite well. The breather/idler was about .015 deep after I gave it the preferred clearance but it's better than when I opened the chest.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
So after reading through Rip’s procedure.... regarding the front follower, it says keep working at it until you get no side play. I would think some end float would be a good idea. He also says “fit the steady plate“. No mention of shimming the the plate so it is straight and isn’t pushing or pulling on the spindles.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Speaking of pushing and pulling spindles, I made a new short stroke slide hammer attachment. Not really a fan of using a slide hammer on the spindle threads, so also made a puller. Those instructions talk about using the cam, shims, washer and a spindle nut to move the spindle outward. Decided I would rather have a puller that screws onto the spindle... using all of the threads. The portion of the puller that threads onto the spindle is held with a wrench so there is no tendency for it to rotate. There are heavy shims and a radial roller bearing to reduce friction. Turning the nut one flat equates to roughly .005“ so hopefully I can draw the spindles out without overshooting. Spacers are for the 3 follower spindles. For the cam spindles, I’ll use the cams for spacers. If any spindles do need to go deeper, the slide hammer will work for that. The adapter uses all the threads on the spindles. Feel free to point out anything I’m missing.

B4A5DA07-A094-49A1-AA32-03980FEE195D.jpeg
 

Bobv07662

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
While setting all the Tragle reccomended end plays I also used his method to pull the rear spindle stud out about .010" to get everything in one plane under the steady plate. It was the only one I had to move.
 

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