E: Engine Cam Suppliers

[bmetcalf]

Bert Weisz used to press larger ID bushes between the outer bushes into long cams to keep them from walking inwards, which might have helped in this area, too.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

The timing of the hole in the cam lobe verses the hole in the spindle is an example of some of the design failures within the timing chest. I put the cams in the lathe and machine an internal radial groove that aligns the hole in the spindle with the hole in the cam lobe, and sometimes this groove is wider to allow this. Carrying out this simple mod will allow oil to flow continuously no matter the position of the cam and hopefully keep the survival rate of the lobe and follower a bit better.

The oil holes in the spindle must point down else the pressure on the cam from the follower will prevent oil flowing from it. I create shallow troughs in the spindle adjacent to the oil holes so that the oil flows thru the hole in the cam for longer ie more degrees of rotation. See OVR 43 https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/0Bx6LgdbZWDhzLXNpcTR5bTVEeHc

 

[Cyborg]

Anyone have a recommended source for a 2mm hollow diamond drill in North America?

 

[bmetcalf]

Dan Smith might have some ideas.

 

[Cyborg]

What is the best method for sizing the oilite bushings after you press the pinion on? I’m assuming a super sharp boring bar... other options? Brand new reamer? I have some lapping compound that sounds like it would be ok, but not convinced that it could all be removed afterwards. Broaching?

 

[Nigel Spaxman]

I used a reamer. That didn't open it at all so I used the same reamer with a .001" shim on one side made from a feeler gauge. That worked great. I think it was better than a boring bar which would be very difficult to center and easy to get the hole to big. The lapping compound might leave behind some grit, same with sandpaper.

 

[Vincent Brake]

I use on bronze bushes:
The time saver lapp. And a brass expanding to set precise , Acro lapp.
I got it form canada somewhere.
Its advantage is that it goes fairly quick blunt , not stay sharp loke diamond or SiC.
But on oillite i would machine it
With very sharp Tungsten shisel. At high speed

 

[Cyborg]

I use on bronze bushes:
The time saver lapp. And a brass expanding to set precise , Acro lapp.
I got it form canada somewhere.
Its advantage is that it goes fairly quick blunt , not stay sharp loke diamond or SiC.
But on oillite i would machine it
With very sharp Tungsten shisel. At high speed

I think it may have been me that gave you the link to Time Saver, but my memory sucks.

 

[Cyborg]

I used a reamer. That didn't open it at all so I used the same reamer with a .001" shim on one side made from a feeler gauge. That worked great. I think it was better than a boring bar which would be very difficult to center and easy to get the hole to big. The lapping compound might leave behind some grit, same with sandpaper.

With a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe, I’m reasonably sure that I could get the runout down to something that wouldn’t register on a .001” DDG. I’ll give it a try just to make sure I’m not talking through my hat. This is the link to the compound. It’s claim to fame is:
“ Prepared in powder form, to be mixed with oil as used.
Timesaver first acts as an abrasive, then the particles diminish to a polish, and finally to inert material.” The yellow label stuff refers to bronze, brass, Babbitt etc. I wondered about the remains getting forced into the pores of the oilite, but the suppler suggests otherwise.

Timesaver Lapping Compound Yellow Label and Green Label Compounds, non imbedding lapping compound, manufactured by Micro Surface - Newman Tools

www.newmantools.com

 

[litnman]

If you use small amounts, try this lapping paste which is non-imbedding
in brass. Price is right too.

Triumph Lapping Compound

Triumph lapping compound was designed specifically for use in the band instrument repair trade. This non-embedding, garnet lapping compound has superior lubrication for easy use. Available in three

musicmedic.com