Cables nipples DIY

[Piston Pete]

Just a thought ...as a good number of our bikes are standard ,or close to it , i.e. std amal throttle ,std amal carb etc ,would it not be possible for the spares co to offer a pre soldered cable ,with ,say an adjuster hidden mid way to offer a greater range ?

I did a diy soldering job on a throttle cable for my humble comet ,but was unhappy with it -Leo O Reilly motorcycles in Dublin City Centre did a proper job for me -a world of difference ,and a lot more reassuring.

 

[Tnecniv Edipar]

Solder does not take to steel as readily as it does to copper , brass etc. So the cleaning process for the cable needs to be thorough especially so on used cable. That Bakers fluid or similar applied to the cable is a good idea and 'tin' the cable with solder before soldering to the nipple. This is done by slipping the nipple over the cable first , then slightly splay the cable strands , tin with solder , wipe of the excess with a damp rag , then pull the nipple back up , splay the cable end , then solder to the nipple.

 

[clevtrev]

Bakers fluid is NOT a good idea, being an acid flux, which is wicked up past the area you want to work in, will cause corrosion, even if well washed with water after using. As I said before the solder is merely to prevent the splayed cable from diminishing in size, to be able to be pulled through the nipple.

 

[vince998]

Bakers fluid is NOT a good idea, being an acid flux, which is wicked up past the area you want to work in, will cause corrosion, even if well washed with water after using. As I said before the solder is merely to prevent the splayed cable from diminishing in size, to be able to be pulled through the nipple.

Valid point from trev,
Any flux used has to be removed after soldering (sometimes impossible depending on type of cable used/degree of capillary effect atained)
I´ve used Venhill cables on numerous rebuilds. They offer a good range of pre stretched maintenance free (when used with there teflon liners) cables that are not pre greased/oiled!! this is the main problem for the DIY cable maker.
All of their cables are delivered flame/plasma cut which allows (with a suitable home made jig) a sort of bird cage to be formed at the end of the cable which is ultimately filled with solder.
I´ve found that merely splaying the wires does not always do the job, and still allows the cable to be pulled through the nipple when the solder gets to its "plastic" stage (through heat build up, usually the cause of a pulled of throttle cable nipple after a short stop).
Try heating the cable before dipping in the solder pot.
If the cable is clean i.e not pre oiled, you don´t usually need a flux.
By the way, i have no personal interest in venhill, they just give the a personal service that makes our type of hobby fun. If you experience a problem, just call and they solve it (or help you to solve it) without a quibble. Makes learning fun

 

[davidjoyner]

Ha! just what I didn't want to hear. The nipple on the choke cable came off after a p.. stop. Logic would dictate that the rest will follow suite. Can you buy 4 new inner cables and nipples to do the job again do you know? I'm off to Spain with 7 modern bikes and I can't allow these merciless b....tds as simple a failure as that! I bought the cables from the VOC.
Regards Dave

 

[Tnecniv Edipar]

Although I've never had a problem with cable repairs I've done , it might be better to use a harder or higher melting point solder.

 

[Marcus Bowden]

Marcus Bowden banana-man

A few MPH's ago

For the benefit of all members as there has been quite a lot about making cables on the forum of late and the differing qualities of solders / fluxes. This is a method I have used and does not even
require solder !!! Solder-less is usually a longer nipple/trunion and threaded along the axes for a clamping screw
& often found on French bikes, Herve' 002 frequently used it until he was enlightened in the late eighties.
The method I use I first found on the front brake cable of my "B" rap whilst salvaging parts (was it original works?) in the mid sixties (apprenticeship years, not much cash) so I made a punch and experimented. I've made a few gigs & cables since.
Equipment:- thick aluminium vice jaws, clamp in vice and drill vertical holes through the mating faces slightly smaller than the cable, then drill a hole the recess size of the nipple
Turn down piece of silver steel into a hollow punch form (1% carbon which is easy
to harden) with a hole drilled to a depth & diameter of diameter of the cable, radius the end inside & out so not
to cut the cable, heat to a cherry red and quench in water. Different size for each size of cable.
Place the cable between the jaws leaving about 3 to 4 diameters above the jaws, using the punch to retain all the ends together deftly hammer the cable into the nipple sized hole.
This will never pull out as it is self cleeting. Solder to finish as it holds it together & austhetics
Bowden is the cable also my name but no connection!
PS When doing the last nipple ensure all the various outer's & adjusters are in correct position, we've
all done it wrong once or may be twice!
The reply to thread does not want to take the picture of the punch, vice jaws & samples of cables but if you have MPH's you will find it.
Small cables of throttle & choke I use silver solder with the very fine flexible cable & hard solder a long blob before cutting it in the centre then with file or grinder shape it into nipple for the carb end then throttle end where it is just soft soldered,cut , into nipple and use a hollow punch again and one can still create an inverted mushroom of smaller size.



JAWS WITH DIFFERENT CABLE SIZES TEST PIECES & PUNCH

 

[The VOC Spares Company Limited]

Cables

Just a thought ...as a good number of our bikes are standard ,or close to it , i.e. std amal throttle ,std amal carb etc ,would it not be possible for the spares co to offer a pre soldered cable ,with ,say an adjuster hidden mid way to offer a greater range ?

Cables (throttle and choke) lengths differ for 1 1/16" and 1 1/8" Amals as well as Monos, Mk1, Mk2 and all the other makes fitted over the years. Include then the single and twin pull twist grips of various makes add further variations. The resulting range of cables would be vast.
We are though in an age of increasing ownership by people who are not mechanically minded with not even basic workshop facilities so skills like soldering many of us take for granted are diminishing we may need to think about ways to get round such issues.
Ian S

 

[bmetcalf]

Cable advice from a Bowden!

 

[vapide]

One can neutralize any acid flux residue after soldering by soaking the cable end in a warm solution of baking soda and water.

Valid point from trev,
Any flux used has to be removed after soldering (sometimes impossible depending on type of cable used/degree of capillary effect atained)