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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
C45 Clutch Nut Lock Spring
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<blockquote data-quote="Peter Holmes" data-source="post: 140044" data-attributes="member: 302"><p>I always use a new spring as a permanent fix as opposed to a re-bent spring, the re-bent spring is for emergency use only, but my experience is that a new spring is no guarantee of longevity, your suggestion about breaking sharp corners might be a good one to try, but I don't think that is the problem, although the C20 that I am currently using is a Maughan product, very precision machined, a thing of beauty, sharp corners everywhere, but I don't think any C20s that I have seen in the past have had the slot corners broken.</p><p>I would have expected the spring to be guillotined on the shear line between the gearbox shaft and the C20 nut, but that is not the case, the little bent tang just breaks off the spring, and then it is just a matter of time before you say to yourself "Hmm that don't feel right" when pulling in the clutch lever.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Peter Holmes, post: 140044, member: 302"] I always use a new spring as a permanent fix as opposed to a re-bent spring, the re-bent spring is for emergency use only, but my experience is that a new spring is no guarantee of longevity, your suggestion about breaking sharp corners might be a good one to try, but I don't think that is the problem, although the C20 that I am currently using is a Maughan product, very precision machined, a thing of beauty, sharp corners everywhere, but I don't think any C20s that I have seen in the past have had the slot corners broken. I would have expected the spring to be guillotined on the shear line between the gearbox shaft and the C20 nut, but that is not the case, the little bent tang just breaks off the spring, and then it is just a matter of time before you say to yourself "Hmm that don't feel right" when pulling in the clutch lever. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
C45 Clutch Nut Lock Spring
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