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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Burman Box Again
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<blockquote data-quote="chankly bore" data-source="post: 115167" data-attributes="member: 317"><p>Orright, now you've wound the clockwork up I'll continue in a series of short jerky movements. I pulled out a new layshaft and gears. I am unwilling, even in the pursuit of absolute accuracy, to pull it apart, but I took the following rough measurements using a vernier caliper. FROM CLUTCH END: bearing register on shaft (length), .760". Width of 21 tooth layshaft gear approximately .926", and the spline length corresponds. From the kickstart end, width of bearing register on shaft .949", width of layshaft 3rd. gear .700" and the spline length corresponds, (well it sticks out about.005"). While you've got it apart, Brian, check the cross-drilled lubrication holes on the two central free running gears. These are often blocked with grease from the 50's! Most post war boxes have these two gears running on bronze sleeves. Oilite or similar is used for the output gear bushes and the two top-hat bushes that the layshaft runs on. DO NOT use bronze for these, it could be fatal. I now have a modern (1985) Japanese bike and am amazed at the detail contained therein; wiring routes, exhaustive torque specifications, using choke only below 20° C and so on. saying that I've only noted one glaring error in "Richardson" which is the wrong placement of ET98 on the cam followers. The illustration in "Richardson" for the gear placement is correct, however he is in error with his description as the second gear layshaft is "free" and the small gear, 21 teeth is fixed on the shaft and is in constant mesh with the 33 tooth main driving gear. I hope this helps someone out there.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="chankly bore, post: 115167, member: 317"] Orright, now you've wound the clockwork up I'll continue in a series of short jerky movements. I pulled out a new layshaft and gears. I am unwilling, even in the pursuit of absolute accuracy, to pull it apart, but I took the following rough measurements using a vernier caliper. FROM CLUTCH END: bearing register on shaft (length), .760". Width of 21 tooth layshaft gear approximately .926", and the spline length corresponds. From the kickstart end, width of bearing register on shaft .949", width of layshaft 3rd. gear .700" and the spline length corresponds, (well it sticks out about.005"). While you've got it apart, Brian, check the cross-drilled lubrication holes on the two central free running gears. These are often blocked with grease from the 50's! Most post war boxes have these two gears running on bronze sleeves. Oilite or similar is used for the output gear bushes and the two top-hat bushes that the layshaft runs on. DO NOT use bronze for these, it could be fatal. I now have a modern (1985) Japanese bike and am amazed at the detail contained therein; wiring routes, exhaustive torque specifications, using choke only below 20° C and so on. saying that I've only noted one glaring error in "Richardson" which is the wrong placement of ET98 on the cam followers. The illustration in "Richardson" for the gear placement is correct, however he is in error with his description as the second gear layshaft is "free" and the small gear, 21 teeth is fixed on the shaft and is in constant mesh with the 33 tooth main driving gear. I hope this helps someone out there. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Burman Box Again
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