FF: Forks Brampton Brake balance beam

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have a fair bit of back and forth rocking in my balance beam. The beam is relatively new. I am guessing the bush is either too long or the bolt is too thin. What sort of clearances are we dealing with here? I have a heavy duty cable but still fighting with sponge. Any advice welcomed.
 

Vincent Brake

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Well its form me,
And i am not your favourite.
But u asked.
So
Play would not be more than 0.3 mm
With nuts n bolt s nipped up.

But not possible here is the bracked as used on a C. Giving more stiffness.
And the beam itself is very flimsy.
So i guess u stay end up with a sponge.
Better do 2 seperate cables. With outer cables fixed on a downtube
Fixture

Cheers
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Well its form me,
And i am not your favourite.
But u asked.
So
Play would not be more than 0.3 mm
With nuts n bolt s nipped up.

But not possible here is the bracked as used on a C. Giving more stiffness.
And the beam itself is very flimsy.
So i guess u stay end up with a sponge.
Better do 2 seperate cables. With outer cables fixed on a downtube
Fixture

Cheers
Thanks Vincent, I appreciate your input. Yes, much easier to stiffen the C bracket than an A or B.
I will consider the twin cables.
 

Marcus Bowden

VOC Hon. Overseas Representative
VOC Member
Just got rid of my Speet twin cables as gone back to using the balance beam as intended as Vincent also said it was better when riding Eric's Comet that had been modified by a Swede at the French rally three years ago but it was on a Comet and original braking distances were better on the Comets as being of lighter to start with.
By the time one has unscrewed the lower cable adjusters I can remove and replace the standard set up two-three times. OK, I'm older and can't squat like I use to.
This is on the round the world "A" with a 21"x 90/90 AvonTrailrider on a WM4 rim (2.5") I can run 18 to 22 psi and gives a better ride with more give.
Notice anchor pin is an Alan bolt M10mm with a S/S sleave on it, the reason being down at Bluff (NZ) lost pin on the LH side, but because of the TLS cam boss didn't cause any problem as it anchored the brake plate still. Again all these foreign manufactures use metric and am continually converting them to a British standard so don't have to carry extra tools.
Also left Vincent's standard set up for when I move it on as want to fit a rim disc some time.


IMG_1396.jpeg





IMG_1397.jpeg
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Agree Marcus. If making a "better product" for a British machine, then having metric involved just complicates things. I would like to be able to give the balance beam on an A or a B a bit more support and I am sure that is possible as I have seen some racing As here in Australia able to bend the forks under braking.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Because I have a lot of Gubbins to hold my Coil over I have had to make an inch diameter pedestal to mount the balance bar on (this picture is when it was loosely assembled on the Alphabet twin) now thats gone to the race track (with a new steering stem Girdraulics and NO balance bar) the Bramptons are being fitted to the electric leg Comet and it would not be difficult to fabricate a front support for the bolt. I will see what the brakes are like.
This picture may help someone who asked me about the coil over fitting at the GCM but I am afraid I forgot who asked me :(
brampton coilover.jpg
 
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