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Brake pedal spring anchor

Michel

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hello,
Sorry to ask again but I searched in "The Alternative Spares List" and in "Back to A" but I hesitate. What is the reference of the pedal spring (FT162/1) anchor? Does it is 560/1 ?
Does Conway sell both ?
Thanks.
 
Last edited:

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The above photo is wrong for me, if the nut came loose and vibrated off the arm is gone, the arm should be on the inside then it can be adjusted, the above picture the lock nut would have to be slackened to remove the wheel, in all the years I've been riding never have I had to slacken a torque arm.
 

delboy

Active Website User
VOC Member
The above photo is wrong for me, if the nut came loose and vibrated off the arm is gone, the arm should be on the inside then it can be adjusted, the above picture the lock nut would have to be slackened to remove the wheel, in all the years I've been riding never have I had to slacken a torque arm.
Marcus, my handsome,
it may be "wrong" but clearly from period photos the works fitted them in front and behind the lugs. And there are different lugs, and so we go round in circles.
People are struggling for originality with their A's, and with the greatest respect, that's not top of your list.

If you read the "A" instruction book on removing the rear wheel, it talks of "slipping the arms [torque] off sideways." No mention of rotating the arms.
Possibly they were fully tightened pre-war?

Post-war, the riders handbook does mention swinging the arms down out of the way.

It seems desirable to fit the torque arms in a straight and parallel line with no bending to make them fit either inside or outside the lug wherever they are designed to naturally fall.

If the arms fall inside of the lug, all is serene. On the timing side fit the bolt from the inside and locknut on the outside. On the drive side one can do the same with the special bolt as in my photo.

If the arms fall on the outside [like TT reps Pete? and the untouched 1939 bike] then on the timing side, just reverse and put the bolt in from outside and locknut inside..
The sticky part comes on the primary side of a road going bike. You can't put the special bolt in the other way round! So it's not desirable to fit this arm outside, but I suspect from period photos that it was done by the works.
If you have to fit this arm like this, use a drip of nutlock loctite on the locknut.

Okay fellow nurds. Flogged this one to death!
Cheers,
Delboy.
 

Michel

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Another question for specialists. My French friend (who is restoring his Comet) is wondering what this pulley is on the brake pedal ?

001.JPG

I can not provide it because there is none on mine.
 

A_HRD

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Michel,

Yes, exactly as said by timetraveller. If yours is missing, the stud on which the 'pulley" rotates will presumably be scraping against the vertical brake-lever? You could usefully use a slightly smaller diameter "pulley" which would have the benefit of slightly lowering the foot-pad on the foot-brake lever - they were often way too high for easy and comfortable operation. Another way to do it is to move the vertical lever forwards and adjust the rear levers on the serrations - and the wing-nuts too - to get the footpad height you need.

However, do make sure you have the full range of brake travel available for an emergency stop!

Note also the adjusting nut/bolt on the foot-brake lever (near the pivot) to assist with range of movement and a positive stop.

Peter B
 

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Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Michel my handsome,3/4" dia, 1/4"wide, 3/8"hole, the groove in the middle 5/32"wide and diameter 17/32", just made one as lost other under the bench, quicker to make new and this one is a nice shiny brass! Talking of rubbish under the bench in Clev Trev's workshop it's underfoot and I recon one could build a Vincent from it!
bananaman.
 

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