Re Marcus's comment about coming up with a way to skim drums on their own bearings ( and axle)
This is very easy to do.
I had a very strong pulsation in a BSA 2 leader brake. The bike was almost unrideable.
I tried using stick on Emery paper to arc the linings to the drum. That improved things very slightly.
I tested a piece of stick on Emery on the other way, stuck to the lining. When removed it came of cleanly, no adhesive stayed on the linings.
So it seemed safe enough to apply stick on adhesive to all of the lining surface.
With the brake plate back in the drum, the axle was installed and brake plate nuts snugged up.
I used a C clamp ( G cramp UK) to hold the brake arm in a brake lightly on position.
With the wheel laid flat on the work table, spaced up on a couple of blocks ( axle protrudes) and clamped to the table, the brake plate was rotated by hand. I could instantly feel the high and low spots as the drag would hit then release ( pulsation) .
After a few rotations it was time to crank the clamp a bit to move the shoes out a smidge.
After about ten minutes of this I could feel the drag becoming more even. After a couple of Emery changes and 30 minutes of work the drag was constant for the full rotation.
Job done.
Well almost.
Turn the paper around and re-arc the linings. Be careful with this as the lining material cuts off very quickly and you only want to take the minimum.
The finished product is perfect and it didn't take long, no tire removal or jig building required.
Not long after this I had the Vincent fronts relined and had the dreaded pulsation with that brake.
The Emery method worked perfectly on that brake as well.
I use 80 grit stick on.
Glen
Hmmmm. But Vincent brakes are a tad different. The hole in the backing plate on which the shoes are mounted is intentional larger than the diameter of the axle. So when on the bench the backing plate is NOT centralised, but free to 'wobble' about.
When installing the wheels onto the bike one is supposed to firmly apply the brake and keep it applied so as to centralise the linings to the drums as you tighten the axle up. So because of this I suspect the do it on the bench method may not work fully for a Vin.
BUT I think it MAY work if you did it with the wheel ON the bike.
Sequence would be
1. Remove wheel,
2. remove backing plate(s)
3. Apply Emery as described by Glen
4. Refit wheel
5. with axle loose, apply brake
6. Tighten axle
7. holding gentle pressure on brake lever, rotate wheel.
repeat as required
(idea for OVR - thanks Glen)