My solution to this on the prototype, long before I knew it to be the prototype, was to cut through the lower end of the right hand crash bar about one inch from where it is welded to the lower plate. A solid steel rod was then welded into the lower end of the upper part and was threaded internally, probably 3/8 BSF. This solid rod would slide into the remaining short piece of tube. A steel bolt could be inserted from behind the lower plate and screwed in to the inserted rod. A tapered washer ensured that the bolt head was at right angles to the line of the bolt and when the bolt was tightened up it pulled the upper part, plus spigot, into the short part. To remove the exhaust pipe one only had to undo the hexagon headed bolt and very slightly pull outwards the long upper part. The crash bar has never been tested by sliding down the road on it but it must be about as strong as before it was modified.
Misc: Everything Else Bent Crash Bars
- Thread starter viacavour
- Start date
From my experience at a 70 mph 'off' the UFM is not at risk. The threaded 'joiner' in the middle seems to be of a non tensile material and in my case it bent.
Not so me!!!! I broke.
My solution was similar to Norman’s in that the bottom of the right crash bar has a loop of solid bar around the exhaust pipe. This bar, welded into the crash bar tube, is threaded to take a nut either side of the engine plate. To remove it the top “sidecar” fitting bolt must be removed as must the inner bottom nut but the bolts through the crankcase do not have to be disturbed.
It has been tested by throwing the bike down the road on ice and in combination with a Primmer's finest pannier saved my leg and most of the bike.
It has been tested by throwing the bike down the road on ice and in combination with a Primmer's finest pannier saved my leg and most of the bike.