Bill has nailed it. I only want to undo it a bit to fit new springs. They arrived today and will shortly switch them out. Will keep you all posted, thanks!
Bob V
ET: Engine (Twin) ATD mounting bolt
- Thread starter Bobv07662
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Bill has nailed it. I only want to undo it a bit to fit new springs. They arrived today and will shortly switch them out. Will keep you all posted, thanks!
Bob V
Reporting that the installation of new ATD return springs was a success. The bolt did indeed loosen and and the taper stayed engaged. Nothing went down the timing chest and the machine's idle is now much more consistent.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
Well done, Big Sid knows best 
, Looks a nice Bike.
You will have a line of Blokes outside your house, For you to mend their Bikes.
Cheers Bill.
, Looks a nice Bike.You will have a line of Blokes outside your house, For you to mend their Bikes
.Cheers Bill.
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After taking the machine for it's maiden voyage, there are two issues that will need to be looked into. There is a lot of banging in the silencer at low rpms. Will look into carbs for richness but could the ATD still have an influence on this? This ATD has quite a bit of "slop" in the pins. Could that be giving me too much retard now that the springs are pulling the weights in fully. Will be checking the timing as soon as I get a mag point checking meter.
The other issue is a grabby clutch. It is dry in there. Looks like I will begin the trip down the clutch diagnosis highway soon. Still had a great ride!
Thanks for all the help and support.
The other issue is a grabby clutch. It is dry in there. Looks like I will begin the trip down the clutch diagnosis highway soon. Still had a great ride!
Thanks for all the help and support.
And I thought you would say how much better the clutch was working, me wrong again!
I have found the slower the tickover, the nicer it goes into gear because the shoes aren't throwing out so much if there is a bit of slop in the shoes, etc.
Don't forget, to find TDC you have to find a way of finding either side of TDC, say 30 or 40 degrees, and then the middle is TDC because the piston is in the same place = still for a few degrees.
After you have found TDC, it's better to turn the engine back a bit, then turn it forward, to take the slack out of all the pinions to see when the points open.
Sorry if you already know this, Cheers Bill.
I have found the slower the tickover, the nicer it goes into gear because the shoes aren't throwing out so much if there is a bit of slop in the shoes, etc.
Don't forget, to find TDC you have to find a way of finding either side of TDC, say 30 or 40 degrees, and then the middle is TDC because the piston is in the same place = still for a few degrees.
After you have found TDC, it's better to turn the engine back a bit, then turn it forward, to take the slack out of all the pinions to see when the points open.
Sorry if you already know this, Cheers Bill.
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I got an LCR meter per this https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/threads/ignition-timing-modern-fuel.6399/page-3#post-47321 , cheaper than the usual and it works well.