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ET: Engine (Twin) ATD mounting bolt

Bobv07662

Active Website User
VOC Member
Concerning the bolt that holds the ATD on to the mag...I would like to loosen it to gain access to the ATD springs. When I back it off will the ATD move on the mag shaft or is it pretty stuck on the taper? I'm hoping it's stuck on so the timing will not be disturbed.
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If you loosen it until it spins freely and no more, it won’t perform the self-extraction function and you can work on the springs. It is worth considering getting more practice at setting the timing in your shop, so that you can do it with ease under trying field conditions.
 

MartynG

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
There is a very real risk of dropping one of the springs INTO the interior of the timing case - so why not bite the bullet, remove the timing case outer so you can remove the ATD and then work on it on the bench - all safe.
 

Robert Watson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have changed them several times through the ATD cover. You can thread a fine wire down the middle of the spring and then remove it with some fine needle nose pliers. Do the same with the new spring. Never put one in the timing case yet!
 

Bobv07662

Active Website User
VOC Member
The bolt that holds the ATD onto the mag...is it RH or LH thread?
To Mr. Watson, I've read in the archives that Big Sid serviced the springs through the ATD cover.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Right hand thread, Don't be too rough because it's only a fibre pinion.
Get a friend to push the rear brake, With the engine in gear, To stop the engine turning,
Take the plug caps off in case the engine fires, With an old type mag'.
 

deejay499

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If it is still stuck on the shaft after undoing the nut, loosen the three nuts that hold the mag and give the ATD a tap with a rubber mallet. If the nut gets hard when undoing, be aware that there is a left hand thread to remove the ATD bolt altogether. I have seen them stripped when people keep trying to undo it.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I know what you mean Dave, But I think it might confuse Bob.
Just undo the bolt as Normal , Anti clock !.
Sometimes a tap with the inside of your wrist helps ?? On the end of the spanner, Rather than a hammer ?
I think Bob only wants to undo it a bit for spring changing ?.
 

deejay499

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I know what you mean Dave, But I think it might confuse Bob.
Just undo the bolt as Normal , Anti clock !.
Sometimes a tap with the inside of your wrist helps ?? On the end of the spanner, Rather than a hammer ?
I think Bob only wants to undo it a bit for spring changing ?.
Yes, Iagree Bill. Just trying to say that if it will not come off the taper, a little help may be needed but certainly not a hammer.
 

Bobv07662

Active Website User
VOC Member
I know what you mean Dave, But I think it might confuse Bob.
Just undo the bolt as Normal , Anti clock !.
Sometimes a tap with the inside of your wrist helps ?? On the end of the spanner, Rather than a hammer ?
I think Bob only wants to undo it a bit for spring changing ?.
Bill has nailed it. I only want to undo it a bit to fit new springs. They arrived today and will shortly switch them out. Will keep you all posted, thanks!

Bob V
 

Bobv07662

Active Website User
VOC Member
Reporting that the installation of new ATD return springs was a success. The bolt did indeed loosen and and the taper stayed engaged. Nothing went down the timing chest and the machine's idle is now much more consistent.
Thanks for all the help.IMG_2815.JPG
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Well done, Big Sid knows best :D , Looks a nice Bike.
You will have a line of Blokes outside your house, For you to mend their Bikes :D.
Cheers Bill.
 
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Bobv07662

Active Website User
VOC Member
After taking the machine for it's maiden voyage, there are two issues that will need to be looked into. There is a lot of banging in the silencer at low rpms. Will look into carbs for richness but could the ATD still have an influence on this? This ATD has quite a bit of "slop" in the pins. Could that be giving me too much retard now that the springs are pulling the weights in fully. Will be checking the timing as soon as I get a mag point checking meter.
The other issue is a grabby clutch. It is dry in there. Looks like I will begin the trip down the clutch diagnosis highway soon. Still had a great ride!

Thanks for all the help and support.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
And I thought you would say how much better the clutch was working, me wrong again!
I have found the slower the tickover, the nicer it goes into gear because the shoes aren't throwing out so much if there is a bit of slop in the shoes, etc.
Don't forget, to find TDC you have to find a way of finding either side of TDC, say 30 or 40 degrees, and then the middle is TDC because the piston is in the same place = still for a few degrees.
After you have found TDC, it's better to turn the engine back a bit, then turn it forward, to take the slack out of all the pinions to see when the points open.
Sorry if you already know this, Cheers Bill.
 
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