The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Assistance sought with a Rapide Clutch problem please
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="BlackLightning998" data-source="post: 11017" data-attributes="member: 109"><p><strong>Thanks Tim, a few questions for guidance if I may?</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Hi Tim,</p><p></p><p>Very helpful thanks - I have a bit more research and reading to do on the subject as I think I am now into the realms of seeking to "fine tune" my clutch - it works fine but I think I'd like it to be just that little bit better than I have it to assist smooth gearchanges.</p><p></p><p>Any chance of some guidance on the following:</p><p></p><p>1 - <em>"Getting the primary to lift square is not just down to the spring pressures. Check that the ends of the push rod and the adjuster in the outer plate are dead square. "</em></p><p>Two questions:</p><p></p><p>1.1 How do I check it?</p><p>I haven't a lathe to put the outer plate (with adjuster) in it and spin it up - so how can I go about finding out if mine is square (have read the notes on V3 so know about the issue)?</p><p></p><p>1.2 What does a "good" pushrod end look like? </p><p>Can anyone post a photo of what a proper pushrod end (clutch side) should look like - mine "looks" OK to my untrained eye and looks like it has a bright spot right dead centre where it is touching the ball bearing in the end of the adjuster, but I know that the primary has got really hot (3 blued spots) so if there a chance that the pushrod end has lost its hardness and trouble awaits me? It would be really useful to know what a good one should look like so that I can compare it to mine and keep an eye on it.</p><p></p><p>Here's a picture of mine below.</p><p></p><p>2 -<em>"Clutch slip and/or clutch drag can be caused by the spring plungers in the clutch shoes being set wrongly - one pulls the shoes off from driving, the other pulls them off from the over-run. If the spring pressure is too low the clutch tends to stick on and drag, if too too high the main clutch may not engage properly and the clutch slips."</em></p><p></p><p>I'm fairly convinced I now have it engaging properly - it pulls like a train uphill to three figure speeds with no sign of slip whatsoever.</p><p></p><p></p><p>3 -<em> "With reference to end float of the shoe carrier, don't over-do it. If there's any wear in the bushes of the carrier (which is almost certain) the carrier can rock side to side, which is limited if the end float is limited."</em></p><p></p><p>I think I am sorted thanks - I will get around to measuring the thickness of the thrust washer I removed (there were 2 and I took out the thinnest) so that should give me a sense of the end float I have created. I understand that the carrier bearing is an important factor on getting the lilft square and reliable - I'll keep an eye on that thanks.</p><p></p><p></p><p>4 - "<em>Finally a tip. When carrying out your test of depressing the kick start lever with the clutch disengaged, to see if it drags, it's easier to do, and easier to see what's going on, if you put it in 4th gear and turn the back wheel. (Unless you've got an assistant to operate the kick start.) This has the added advantage that you can simulate both directions. Turning the wheel forwards makes the clutch operate as in the over-run and turning it backwards makes the clutch operate in drive mode."</em></p><p></p><p>Easier said than done with a Grosset Electric Start (one direction only) - however that is easy to drop out with three allen screws. One of the benefits of being tall is long arms which help out on the job, but getting a friend in is a good call - I think that's next for a little bit of fettling!</p><p> </p><p></p><p>5 - <em>"But, if it's working OK, and it ain't broke, for God's sake don't fix it"</em></p><p></p><p>Having been through the emotional roller coaster of having caused it to stop slipping and then dragging all on my own, I feel a little more comfortable about going in again to try and fettle it to a step closer to perfection. My Vincent engineering mentor advises me that one of the most important steps to a smooth gearchange is having a clutch which disengages properly - I use "properly" rather than quickly as of course I have read that the Vincent clutch isn't always an instantaneous disengage. </p><p></p><p>However, replies on the above questions from you and/or other more experienced members than myself will help me prepare myself and think through what I might and might not attempt.</p><p></p><p>Is the mini-valve the answer - if so, I've missed it in FYO etc, where can I find out about how to do that mod?</p><p></p><p>Regards</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BlackLightning998, post: 11017, member: 109"] [b]Thanks Tim, a few questions for guidance if I may?[/b] Hi Tim, Very helpful thanks - I have a bit more research and reading to do on the subject as I think I am now into the realms of seeking to "fine tune" my clutch - it works fine but I think I'd like it to be just that little bit better than I have it to assist smooth gearchanges. Any chance of some guidance on the following: 1 - [I]"Getting the primary to lift square is not just down to the spring pressures. Check that the ends of the push rod and the adjuster in the outer plate are dead square. "[/I] Two questions: 1.1 How do I check it? I haven't a lathe to put the outer plate (with adjuster) in it and spin it up - so how can I go about finding out if mine is square (have read the notes on V3 so know about the issue)? 1.2 What does a "good" pushrod end look like? Can anyone post a photo of what a proper pushrod end (clutch side) should look like - mine "looks" OK to my untrained eye and looks like it has a bright spot right dead centre where it is touching the ball bearing in the end of the adjuster, but I know that the primary has got really hot (3 blued spots) so if there a chance that the pushrod end has lost its hardness and trouble awaits me? It would be really useful to know what a good one should look like so that I can compare it to mine and keep an eye on it. Here's a picture of mine below. 2 -[I]"Clutch slip and/or clutch drag can be caused by the spring plungers in the clutch shoes being set wrongly - one pulls the shoes off from driving, the other pulls them off from the over-run. If the spring pressure is too low the clutch tends to stick on and drag, if too too high the main clutch may not engage properly and the clutch slips."[/I] I'm fairly convinced I now have it engaging properly - it pulls like a train uphill to three figure speeds with no sign of slip whatsoever. 3 -[I] "With reference to end float of the shoe carrier, don't over-do it. If there's any wear in the bushes of the carrier (which is almost certain) the carrier can rock side to side, which is limited if the end float is limited."[/I] I think I am sorted thanks - I will get around to measuring the thickness of the thrust washer I removed (there were 2 and I took out the thinnest) so that should give me a sense of the end float I have created. I understand that the carrier bearing is an important factor on getting the lilft square and reliable - I'll keep an eye on that thanks. 4 - "[I]Finally a tip. When carrying out your test of depressing the kick start lever with the clutch disengaged, to see if it drags, it's easier to do, and easier to see what's going on, if you put it in 4th gear and turn the back wheel. (Unless you've got an assistant to operate the kick start.) This has the added advantage that you can simulate both directions. Turning the wheel forwards makes the clutch operate as in the over-run and turning it backwards makes the clutch operate in drive mode."[/I] Easier said than done with a Grosset Electric Start (one direction only) - however that is easy to drop out with three allen screws. One of the benefits of being tall is long arms which help out on the job, but getting a friend in is a good call - I think that's next for a little bit of fettling! 5 - [I]"But, if it's working OK, and it ain't broke, for God's sake don't fix it"[/I] Having been through the emotional roller coaster of having caused it to stop slipping and then dragging all on my own, I feel a little more comfortable about going in again to try and fettle it to a step closer to perfection. My Vincent engineering mentor advises me that one of the most important steps to a smooth gearchange is having a clutch which disengages properly - I use "properly" rather than quickly as of course I have read that the Vincent clutch isn't always an instantaneous disengage. However, replies on the above questions from you and/or other more experienced members than myself will help me prepare myself and think through what I might and might not attempt. Is the mini-valve the answer - if so, I've missed it in FYO etc, where can I find out about how to do that mod? Regards [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Irving's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Assistance sought with a Rapide Clutch problem please
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top