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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Assistance sought with a Rapide Clutch problem please
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<blockquote data-quote="Tim Kirker" data-source="post: 10982" data-attributes="member: 200"><p><strong>Vincent Twin Clutch</strong></p><p></p><p>There's a longer version of this under the V3 Clutch Thread started by Tom Gaynor - round about Page 4.</p><p></p><p>The actions taken thus far are fine but there are a couple of comments I would add in case you haven't quite got to the bottom of it. </p><p></p><p>Getting the primary to lift square is not just down to the spring pressures. Check that the ends of the push rod and the adjuster in the outer plate are dead square. I was amazed what a powerful affect this has if one of them is slightly out. </p><p></p><p>Clutch slip and/or clutch drag can be caused by the spring plungers in the clutch shoes being set wrongly - one pulls the shoes off from driving, the other pulls them off from the over-run. If the spring pressure is too low the clutch tends to stick on and drag, if too too high the main clutch may not engage properly and the clutch slips.</p><p></p><p>Another factor possibly contributing to clutch drag, which I have addressed, is that the two plungers should "balance" the clutch at rest. In my case they were out of balance so that the over-run shoes were virtually rubbing the drum, and the drive shoes were 2 or 3 mm clear. I corrected this by adjusting spacers around the respective pins. </p><p></p><p>With reference to end float of the shoe carrier, don't over-do it. If there's any wear in the bushes of the carrier (which is almost certain) the carrier can rock side to side, which is limited if the end float is limited.</p><p></p><p>Finally a tip. When carrying out your test of depressing the kick start lever with the clutch disengaged, to see if it drags, it's easier to do, and easier to see what's going on, if you put it in 4th gear and turn the back wheel. (Unless you've got an assistant to operate the kick start.) This has the added advantage that you can simulate both directions. Turning the wheel forwards makes the clutch operate as in the over-run and turning it backwards makes the clutch operate in drive mode.</p><p></p><p>But, if it's working OK, and it ain't broke, for God's sake don't fix it!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tim Kirker, post: 10982, member: 200"] [b]Vincent Twin Clutch[/b] There's a longer version of this under the V3 Clutch Thread started by Tom Gaynor - round about Page 4. The actions taken thus far are fine but there are a couple of comments I would add in case you haven't quite got to the bottom of it. Getting the primary to lift square is not just down to the spring pressures. Check that the ends of the push rod and the adjuster in the outer plate are dead square. I was amazed what a powerful affect this has if one of them is slightly out. Clutch slip and/or clutch drag can be caused by the spring plungers in the clutch shoes being set wrongly - one pulls the shoes off from driving, the other pulls them off from the over-run. If the spring pressure is too low the clutch tends to stick on and drag, if too too high the main clutch may not engage properly and the clutch slips. Another factor possibly contributing to clutch drag, which I have addressed, is that the two plungers should "balance" the clutch at rest. In my case they were out of balance so that the over-run shoes were virtually rubbing the drum, and the drive shoes were 2 or 3 mm clear. I corrected this by adjusting spacers around the respective pins. With reference to end float of the shoe carrier, don't over-do it. If there's any wear in the bushes of the carrier (which is almost certain) the carrier can rock side to side, which is limited if the end float is limited. Finally a tip. When carrying out your test of depressing the kick start lever with the clutch disengaged, to see if it drags, it's easier to do, and easier to see what's going on, if you put it in 4th gear and turn the back wheel. (Unless you've got an assistant to operate the kick start.) This has the added advantage that you can simulate both directions. Turning the wheel forwards makes the clutch operate as in the over-run and turning it backwards makes the clutch operate in drive mode. But, if it's working OK, and it ain't broke, for God's sake don't fix it! [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Assistance sought with a Rapide Clutch problem please
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