Another Oil Thread

mercurycrest

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Castrol R40 bean oil made it to stage 2 , 242 lbs. It is quite low in friction at 1.9 total heat from friction. Some conventional oils were as high as 7 total heat.
Some synthetics had "not measureable" heat from friction.
Most synthetics were in the .5 to 2 range.
Three Motul oils were tested, the Lemans 300v synthetic, an oil labelled 5100 and another labelled 7100.
The 5100 failed at 195 lbs, Stage 1, the 7100 at 416 lbs, Stage 3. The Lemans 300v failed at 126 lbs. The Lemans had very low heat from friction.
Morris oil also did quite well at 196 lbs. This was Morris VTwin 20/50. Golden film wasn't tested.
One interesting observation was that a given company might have one or two oils that could resist very high loading and also one or two that failed with extremely light loading.
Brand meant nothing.
The expensive Royal Purple XPR synthetic that Jim had been using in his fuel injected Norton Commando 880 failed at just over 100 lbs. Royal Purple HPS made 437, nearly at the top of the stage 3 group.
Yeah, but bean oil exhaust doesn't smell like fossilised, Pterodactyl S**t! :D
 

davidd

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I think it was Slick 50, just been looking it up on the net.
I don't think that Slick 50 is considered a legitimate oil additive by those who have conducted scar wear tests. I would put it with zinc and ZDDP as oil additives that do not work well. Unfortunately, oil with high zinc levels do not work well either. While it does work as an anti wear additive, GM found that it becomes corrosive at high levels. They have spent a lot of money trying to wean Corvette owners off ZDDP and they have changed their owner's manuals to promote low ZDDP oil.

There are oils that provide stunningly high wear protection right out of the bottle. Many owners are using these, which is not surprising. Even though there are additives that do increase wear protection, I would just use an "out of the bottle" oil that gives the same results. Glen mentioned many of these oils.

If you have had good luck with your oil, keep using it. If you are trying to find a new oil I would stick to the 40w oils (including multi grades). High viscosity oils give you a little reserve during high heat moments. Although Vincents rarely get their oil up to cold temps, I think the oil is exposed to some very high temps in the cylinder and cam spindles due to combustion and hydraulic pressure.

Oil provides the highest protection at boiling temps, but the Vincents do not get their oil tanks this hot. So, it is good to start out with a very good oil that performs well cold. Like everything else, oil is a compromise also.

David
 

vibrac

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It was years till the penny dropped that Q8 was from Kuwait ...:oops:
part of Kuwait Petroleum Corporation (KPC)
 

Monkeypants

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The ideal range for Zddp and flat tappets seems to be in the 1100-1400ppm range.
Some of the Norton owners were spending a lot to get the 2200ppm Redline, thinking if some ZDDP is good , more must be better.
They were mightily disappointed with the Redline scar testing.
There are also many different forms of ZDDP used.
This is why the scar testing was so useful, especially when done by an independent individual who just wanted information, wasn't interested in selling products.


Glen
 

Mike 40M

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When I can get castrol or castorlene R30 thats the stuff!;) no rubber gloves handing that oil, you wont see a cleaner inside timing cover and the old stuff is magic in the lathe. I will admit to going to Filtrate 2 stroke in my Scott though:confused:
Stupid question, what use in the lathe?
As I change the Morris R40 in the Manx after each race, so I've got got gallons of barely used oil.
 

mercurycrest

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Stupid question, what use in the lathe?
As I change the Morris R40 in the Manx after each race, so I've got got gallons of barely used oil.
Don't throw old bean oil out. Once it's used it's even better. That's what the German's did with the Me-209-V1 record breaking airplane. They let used oil settle for a year, or so, then reused it in the Record Attempts. It's called "Picking the Bloom".
 
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