Alton Generator ?

rwhitne2

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Non-VOC Member
I am interested in purchasing one of Paul Hamon's units - and converting to 12 volt just for the reliability factor. Any one w/ recent experience, thoughts of on regulator etc. I have a D Shadow / Podtronics reg., rebuilt 6V Lucas unit which just stopped generating etc. Thanks, Mike Whitney, Pownal Maine
PS liking the 8 inch VOC brakes more and more
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I am interested in purchasing one of Paul Hamon's units - and converting to 12 volt just for the reliability factor. Any one w/ recent experience, thoughts of on regulator etc. I have a D Shadow / Podtronics reg., rebuilt 6V Lucas unit which just stopped generating etc. Thanks, Mike Whitney, Pownal Maine
PS liking the 8 inch VOC brakes more and more

I recommend the Alton w/podtronics.
 

tractorman414

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VOC Member
Alton generator

Hi Mike

I've had an one off the first batch of Altons generally available fitted to my D and later [1998] bought one for my C, I have never looked back. they come with their regulator. Can't comment on your electronics, but believe it will make no diffenence to the Alton, If you have been using a Lucas unit, you will only find improvement. The Alton is not the complete answer to Vincent electrical generation, if you want to poodle around town in top gear running a modern headlamp you will a car/industrial engine unit which will be more complex to fit and look very non standard

Bernard Jones

Dorset Section
 

peterg

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Non-VOC Member
Howdy Mike,

Lucas E3L's are very robust units, have run one on my Red Rap, first with a Bell elec reg and now with a PODtronic - the latter a lovely device I have on quite a few other machines - and would not give up on it just yet. But, they do not like oil or oil mist internally and will glaze the brushes and grease up the commutator very quickly.

If you've very effectively sealed your power unit (emphasis on join between generator drive end and back of primary) and your crankcase breathing arrangement is a bit dodgy, then your motor will attempt to breath through your generator drive if you do not have a lip seal on the genie drive end waft mist over the brushes .

Mine succumbed to the above scenario, fitted a lip seal and a PCV to the breathing system, now back in business. As mentioned at JTAN, PODtronics (and many elect reg's) control output voltage via the field coil ground and are sensitive generator case grounding to the power unit. Powder coated/2 pack painted cases can cause grounding problems if the generator clamp not directly in contact with the E3L exposed metal drive end. If in doubt, lay flattened piece of soft solder under clamp where it rests over the drive end.
 

Michael

Forum User
VOC Member
Dynamo hole

Peter,
In looking at the pics of your restoration I noticed the hole through which the dynamo drive gear protrudes to connect with the primary drive chain. The leading edge of the hole is kind of chewed up. It caught my eye because mine is in similar shape- actually a bit worse. I wonder if you, or anyone else, have an explanation for this damage. My bike, which I have only had for about 4 months, arrived missing the dynamo, regulator and battery. I acquired a used Lucal E3L (ebay) and just got all new parts to rebuild it. I probably should have just gone the Alton route but now that I am this far I'll try to make the Lucas work. I am a little worried about the hole and sealing it up so as to keep the oil in the chaincase, not in the generator.
- Michael
 

peterg

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Non-VOC Member
Howdy Michael,

If you're referring to the one below, appearance is deceptive, these cases were absolutely virginal, that is a cosmolene like coating of old oil and shop dust as the timing cover had been sitting off the machine in a shed for over 35 years after the ATD had acted up. Only reason I can think for that opening being chewed up is someone trying to adapt another charging device to fit those confines. All dimensions taken as one define a pretty narrow range of accomodation and even sever misalignment of a D6/E3L here would not foul anything.

There are a couple of ways to seal the drive. Big Sid liketo lay sealer behind the oil slinger against the case and let dry to close the gap. I use a product sold by NAPA which is wrapped around very high temp lines like a/c condensor lines. It is sold as a flat band tape 2 inches wide with wax paper separator and is a rubberized tar that holds its shape and when heated with a hair dryer adheres to any clean surface. I kneed up a ring around the inside well of the drive on the side facing the generator drive, then slowly press and rotate the generator against it till I get the correct drive sprocket offsets and tooth depth on the chain ring.



vincent8.jpg
 

Michael

Forum User
VOC Member
No, Peter, I was referring to the 2nd picture in your album that shows the othe side of the motor with the primary drive chain removed. The caption is "As mentioned elswhere here the motor had a complete powerplant rebuild..."
- Michael
 

peterg

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Howdy Michael,

...got it, you're talking about the one of the Shadow in the photo albums on this forum here, not the one of the Red Rap at my site. Frankly, didn't notice that at the time as I was more focused on discovering any "surprises" within this new purchase - thankfully none found.

But, you got me to wondering so found the original 8 mega pix master and cropped that out below if this is what your drive opening looks like. This machine was/is still fitted with the D6 it was delivered with.
 

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Michael

Forum User
VOC Member
drive opening

Hmm, doesn't look so bad in the blow up. Mine is really chewed up. I will try to take a pic this evening and post it.
- Michael
 

rwhitne2

Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Howdy Mike,

Lucas E3L's are very robust units, have run one on my Red Rap, first with a Bell elec reg and now with a PODtronic - the latter a lovely device I have on quite a few other machines - and would not give up on it just yet. But, they do not like oil or oil mist internally and will glaze the brushes and grease up the commutator very quickly.

If you've very effectively sealed your power unit (emphasis on join between generator drive end and back of primary) and your crankcase breathing arrangement is a bit dodgy, then your motor will attempt to breath through your generator drive if you do not have a lip seal on the genie drive end waft mist over the brushes .

Mine succumbed to the above scenario, fitted a lip seal and a PCV to the breathing system, now back in business. As mentioned at JTAN, PODtronics (and many elect reg's) control output voltage via the field coil ground and are sensitive generator case grounding to the power unit. Powder coated/2 pack painted cases can cause grounding problems if the generator clamp not directly in contact with the E3L exposed metal drive end. If in doubt, lay flattened piece of soft solder under clamp where it rests over the drive end.

Peter - thanks. I have run Podtronics on my 6 pre unit Triumphs for years no problems; have one on the D as well as PCV system and no leaks etc. Will check grounds etc. Appreciate the feedback. Mike
 
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