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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Alton generator
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 108406" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>I don't know what voltage a Walkernator produces at tick over as I have never measured it. One also has to be careful to specify the bike. For example on a Comet the alternator turns more slowly than on a twin and on a twin with two front heads and the hollow in the top of the gearbox I can make the alternator turn more quickly than on a twin with front and rear heads and no hollow in the gearbox top. On my own bike, on which most of my testing took place, the ex-Cecil Mills production class racer with 9:1s and Mk 2, tick over is at about 1,000 rpm. At those revs the system balances a 130 watt headlamp bulb and a 6 watt tail lamp bulb with ease. Switching on front and rear indicator bulbs (2 x 21 watt) causes the ammeter to deflect briefly but to recover to zero within a second or so. At higher revs I never see a discharge on the ammeter no matter what load is switched on.</p><p> On a Comet one needs to use third gear at 30 mph in traffic to keep the charge above zero. Once out of the 30 mph controlled area then top gear at 40 and above will balance everything tried so far.</p><p> I do like to see people experimenting with different things and the idea of using a compact electric motor for charging might well have some merit. I doubt it, but would like to be shown to be wrong. When I started playing around with this many years ago I thought that I could be a smart a**e and I got an alternator off a Honda four stroke outboard engine. I liked the idea that the permanent magnets were in the rotating outer housing and the coils were in the centre. The voltage induced in the windings is a function of the cutting speed of the magnetic field passing the end of the coils and this is faster with the magnets further out from the centre of rotation, i.e. in the outer rotating part. However, the problems with then trying to engineer these two separate components into something that would fit where the original dynamo sits and would be mechanically reliable was more effort than it was worth and would probably have ended up costing more to make than the present system. Paul Hamon has stuck at it and although there has been a history of unreliability with the Altons the advent of the latest rare earth powerful magnets and Paul getting rid of various internal gears has resulted in a system which is reliable, compact and powerful enough for many people. However, quarts and pint pots comes to mind and there is a limit of what can be extracted from a given volume. Given a new start then an alternator working where the ESA is and a starter motor where the dynamo is would be my way of going forwards and keeping most of the original looks. A three gear primary drive, rather than a chain or belt would give some space and a shock absorber built into the clutch would get round the removal of the ESA from its original position.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 108406, member: 456"] I don't know what voltage a Walkernator produces at tick over as I have never measured it. One also has to be careful to specify the bike. For example on a Comet the alternator turns more slowly than on a twin and on a twin with two front heads and the hollow in the top of the gearbox I can make the alternator turn more quickly than on a twin with front and rear heads and no hollow in the gearbox top. On my own bike, on which most of my testing took place, the ex-Cecil Mills production class racer with 9:1s and Mk 2, tick over is at about 1,000 rpm. At those revs the system balances a 130 watt headlamp bulb and a 6 watt tail lamp bulb with ease. Switching on front and rear indicator bulbs (2 x 21 watt) causes the ammeter to deflect briefly but to recover to zero within a second or so. At higher revs I never see a discharge on the ammeter no matter what load is switched on. On a Comet one needs to use third gear at 30 mph in traffic to keep the charge above zero. Once out of the 30 mph controlled area then top gear at 40 and above will balance everything tried so far. I do like to see people experimenting with different things and the idea of using a compact electric motor for charging might well have some merit. I doubt it, but would like to be shown to be wrong. When I started playing around with this many years ago I thought that I could be a smart a**e and I got an alternator off a Honda four stroke outboard engine. I liked the idea that the permanent magnets were in the rotating outer housing and the coils were in the centre. The voltage induced in the windings is a function of the cutting speed of the magnetic field passing the end of the coils and this is faster with the magnets further out from the centre of rotation, i.e. in the outer rotating part. However, the problems with then trying to engineer these two separate components into something that would fit where the original dynamo sits and would be mechanically reliable was more effort than it was worth and would probably have ended up costing more to make than the present system. Paul Hamon has stuck at it and although there has been a history of unreliability with the Altons the advent of the latest rare earth powerful magnets and Paul getting rid of various internal gears has resulted in a system which is reliable, compact and powerful enough for many people. However, quarts and pint pots comes to mind and there is a limit of what can be extracted from a given volume. Given a new start then an alternator working where the ESA is and a starter motor where the dynamo is would be my way of going forwards and keeping most of the original looks. A three gear primary drive, rather than a chain or belt would give some space and a shock absorber built into the clutch would get round the removal of the ESA from its original position. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Alton generator
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