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Alloy mud guards vs Stainless mud guards

Kansas Bad Man

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
Both the aluminum, and the stainless, have there individual advantages. The purist will favor the aluminum for its original appearance, both the aluminum, and stainless, are polished, but make no mistake, the color of the luster is quite noticeable to the trained eye. The fenders are of the C shape, and all are after market now days, the NOS are gone. The after market fender has to be fitted , not a easy task to get it right, any one who has under gone the drill will agree. The rear after market fender is a battle to get right ,the radius needs to be greater, I have over the years, fitted some 40 fronts and rears, so I speak from experience. If you go to the Vincent web sight , I wrote an article on the step by step procedures that I use for installation. If you choose the aluminum fender , make sure you seal the reinforcing straps, it is also a good idea to paint the straps. The reason is to prevent the two unlike metals to form electrolysis points, which cause the aluminum to corrode . Road salts between the straps and the aluminum cause rapid corrosion, seal with 3M upholstery / welting glue. The main plus in selecting stainless over aluminum is, durability and its resistance to cracking, and ease of maintenance.


Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
I'm in the process of changing my Comet's stainless guards for alloy and have the easy one (front) fitted. Looking at the bike with a front alloy and rear stainless I have to say that the colour of the alloy looks way better. There's something not quite right about the warmer, yellow tinged stainless. Sadly, I also have stainless brake water deflectors fitted so they will have to go as well.


Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
One advantage of stainless over alloy is they are easier to weld if and when they split. I had stainless guards on the Rapide and youngjohn is correct about the colour; polished alloy is just so much more "right". I polished the stainless but then let them develop a patina and they looked better for it. Whichever you choose make sure there is no stress whatsoever on the guards, especially the mounting to the front of the RFM. It is much easier to "adjust" the alloy guards, whether it is to cut them for the hinge, belt with a hammer/dolly to clear the lower chain run or open up the radius a little. Use Sikaflex to attach the internal steel strip and always curve your washers. I place the washers over a suitably sized countersunk hole (drilled into some hardwood) then give them some decent persuasion with a ball hammer.
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