All things UK (GOLD STAR)

kurtflys

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I finally found good company for my 52 Vincent. I found a 1955 Gold Star that has been on display for many years but does run. But not very good. Hard to start and backfires thru the carb. Now I need to find a guru that can help me get this bike running as good as my Black Shadow. Or perhaps a publication that can give me instruction on the setup for the carb and general rules. Looked at the UK Gold Star club but they don't take cc over the web so it's hard to join.
Side note is that my BS had a leak on the seam at the rear of the tank. Good news is that my friend was able to Tig up the tank and stop the leak. Now I just have to repair the paint and I'm good to go.
 

vibrac

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Rear tank leak, The cause is often the looseness or absence of T38 and T39
 

kurtflys

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Rear tank leak, The cause is often the looseness or absence of T38 and T39
Interesting. I have T38, but not T39. How would the T39 piece help? Since I don't have one , I'm guessing that it is a tight fit between the holding brackets and disperses any stress? But I'm not sure.
Thanks
 

bmetcalf

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VOC Member
It may not be a tight fit and could need a shim (mine does). You are right about it decreasing stresses. The tank will flex less with that tube in place.
 

Magnetoman

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been on display for many years but does run. But not very good. Hard to start and backfires thru the carb.
This is the classic symptom of a failed condenser in the magneto. They go bad with time irrespective of whether they are used or not. To check if this is the case take the cover off the end of the magneto and start it outside of direct light (it doesn't have to be pitch dark) while a friend looks at the points. If there is anything more than the slightest pinpricks of light at the points the condenser is bad.
 

vibrac

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Interesting. I have T38, but not T39. How would the T39 piece help? Since I don't have one , I'm guessing that it is a tight fit between the holding brackets and disperses any stress? But I'm not sure.
Thanks
Absolutley essential fitting. On the racers with a standard fixing tank I have a piece of 5/16" hex alloy with a 1/4" tapped hole each end and screw in 2 - 1/4" set screws just because its quicker to fit-take off but the tank needs that tension and spacer
 

ossie

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i have said this before make sure when the tank is bolted up at the seat end the rubber packing under the flange is thick enough to stop the tank stress/tie tube coming down on the rear valve spring cap as you will pull the tank fitting down and crack the weld[yes ive done it]
OSSIE
 

nkt267

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i have said this before make sure when the tank is bolted up at the seat end the rubber packing under the flange is thick enough to stop the tank stress/tie tube coming down on the rear valve spring cap as you will pull the tank fitting down and crack the weld[yes ive done it]
Aahhh..The blessings of a Comet..John
 

bmetcalf

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VOC Member
I forget why I did it now, but I have two rubber pieces at the rear and had to grind reliefs in the tube to miss the side plates at the rear of the UFM.
 

vibrac

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VOC Member
I think thats where my hexagon spacer started-clearance, the speed of removal came later
 
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