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A few Shadow questions...

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Now oil pump help!

Hi all, How difficult it is to mount a set of original Craven Silver
arrows to a C series twin? Does any one happen to have access to as set of
mounting instructions? :) I miss Phil P....:-(

In addition...

I need to remove The oil pump Cap OP33 as well as the oil pump
locating screw OP36 so I can re-seal them as they are both leaking oil...It
seems pretty clear that the locating screw is holding the pump position and
that the motor must not be turned at all as long as it is out...

BUT...are there any other cautions, specific instructions or
gotcha’s I should look out for if I am going to remove and then re install these
bits to re-seal them?


Getting her ready for her first out of state over night tour!
Hot DANG..


Thanks as always for your help..


Eric


 
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chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
You are always better off with a bronze oil pump cap- they seem less likely to bind in. A wee bit of "Copaslip" or similar on the first couple of threads and some non-setting gasket sealant on the threads at the outer end. I wouldn't use RTV silicone anywhere around this area. The plunger is threaded 1/4" BSF so do not fear losing the locating groove for the peg. Check the peg for wear. Put some non-setting goo on the last few threads and up under the head. Tighten snugly with a well fitting screwdriver and punchlock the slot. Wipe away any excess goo.
 

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Much Thanks for the assist! Cheers Eric
You are always better off with a bronze oil pump cap- they seem less likely to bind in. A wee bit of "Copaslip" or similar on the first couple of threads and some non-setting gasket sealant on the threads at the outer end. I wouldn't use RTV silicone anywhere around this area. The plunger is threaded 1/4" BSF so do not fear losing the locating groove for the peg. Check the peg for wear. Put some non-setting goo on the last few threads and up under the head. Tighten snugly with a well fitting screwdriver and punchlock the slot. Wipe away any excess goo.
 

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Gents,

I have removed the oil pump locating screw OP36 and cover and the oil pump plunger did indeed slide down a bit.. So the question is how far back in does it go. It seems that is goes further in then it was originally before I loosened the screw....

Thanks
Eric
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
On most bikes it is quite safe to let the oil pump plunger come out completely so do not worry if it slides out when you take out the hardened screw. You will probably find that the cylindrical end of the screw has two flats on it and it is the fit of these in the groove in the plunger body that it important. If the screw is really badly worn then replace it. When replacing the plunger etc you put it in until the groove lines up with the position of the screw so that the cylindrical part of the screw can enter the groove and do its job of making the plunger go in and out as it rotates. If it does not line up just rotate the engine so that the plunger rotates until the groove is at the correct height. There is no timing involved and inspection of the parts should make it clear as to how the system works.
 
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Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Recently came back from a 15 min ride on the Vin in the 87F 30C temps with blasts up to 70 mph and lots of 40-50mph around town riding. Parked the bike over a white drip rag from the mag cover to the swing arm. I ate dinner and then went back to check not a single drop of oil on the rag....:)

I know a few tanks of fuel at motor way speeds will show some oil weeps and drips as it should be...I for one consider the matter now closed, she is as oil tight as she needs to be:) My rear tire will now hopefully no longer be coated with oil..

Thanks All for the help!

Eric
 
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