35w Halogen too much?

[vintagetour]

I will probably stay with the mechanical regulator until it fails. I like the idea of being able to take something apart to see how it works versus something solid state that works with a diode (I assume). You know the old saying "How do it know?" With my limited electrical knowledge, it seems that my generator does not charge just above idle like a BMW. Is that a fair assumption?
I am not even sure I have the Amp meter hooked up correctly. I hooked the feed (not sure if that is the correct term) from the generator/battery to the discharge side of the ampmeter and the "load" side (going to the lights) to the charge side. Would that be correct?
Thanks
Tom

 

[mercurycrest]

Hi Tom,
I think your connections sound OK... If you turn the lights on with the engine stopped if it's OK it will show a discharge. I've been using a 35/35 QH for years on my D with a Chinamo and coil ignition. I think a Miller is probably a better generator if you get rid of the little keeper on the driveside bearing and replace both bearings with sealed units. The screws on the keeper can fall out and really mess things up. I've never had a problem with a Lucas D regulator or the India Enfield copy either. They are even adjustable if you have a multimeter and a little patience.
Cheers, John

 

[Tnecniv Edipar]

Those ammeter connections seem incorrect to me , but as mercury suggests , with the engine off the ammeter should show a discharge with lights on. If thats not the case , swop the connections around.

 

[John Appleton]

I am not even sure I have the Amp meter hooked up correctly. I hooked the feed (not sure if that is the correct term) from the generator/battery to the discharge side of the ampmeter and the "load" side (going to the lights) to the charge side. Would that be correct?
Thanks
Tom[/QUOTE]

Tom, the way you have wired your ammeter is not correct. All it will show is what your lights are consuming at any given time.
what you should have is :-
1) wire from "A" of the regulator to one side of the meter.
2)wire to the battery on the other side of the meter.
3)wire to the lights on the same side as wire from "A"

Now with engine not running and lights turned "on" your ammeter should show a discharge. If not , swap all wires to opposite sides of the meter.
With the engine running the ammeter will show the true situation as to what is happening to the battery, ie.with the lights "on" they are being run by the generator and the meter will only show a discharge if the generator is not producing enough power and the shortfall is being pulled from the battery. Raise the revs and the situation should reverse to a charge showing , provided your bulbs are not drawing more than the generator is capable of,and the battery is not fully charged.

John

 

[vintagetour]

Because hooking up the voltmeter was an after thought I do not have enough wires to just switch wires around. I see now how I should have wired it but I will have to pull another wire through the wiring loom to accomplish that. Both the wire from the Voltage regulator and the battery go to the hot side of my ignition. Previously the ignition was wired so if the regulator was charging I had power to the ignition whether the key was on or not. The first time my slides stuck on the carbs at about 4000 rpm's I rewired it through the key! When I built the new wiring harness I did the same. I will have to study all these good suggestions for a while and see if there is a way to switch and add.
Thanks guys for all the help.
Tom