It doesn't help at roadside, but it is a good idea to have a dedicated screwdriver in the shop that you have ground to fit just right in the slot.
ET: Engine (Twin) 2BA Countersunk Screws (406)
- Thread starter ossie
- Start date
Well Bill you surprise me, if you have access to a bench grinder buy yourself a decent brand screwdriver, preferably oversize, hollow grind the flats until the blade fits the slot precisely, then grind the blade overhang in slot to same angle as the countersunk screw, taking care when you are grinding never to overheat the blade, a jam pot filled with cold water with an ice cube in it helps here, I have kept my pilot clutch screwdriver for that use for a very long time, it is capable of doing the 9 screws up very tight, very quickly without slippage or damage to the screw heads, as I have said in a previous post, I have had to do this a few times, I have experimented with Allen headed screws, but soon reverted back to standard, the only types I might change to is Pozi or Torx, but as previously stated, they are not easy to come by, if available at all.
I keep telling you I am a poor old Pensioner !,
Only got a File and a Hammer
.
Only got a File and a Hammer
.That thing with the countersunk BA screws kept me headscratching for a while now. It seems there is some space for more head than just countersunk, otherwise that screw had blocked the mess earlier. My idea is to get common Allen BA bolts with big hex key and just turn a big chamfer on it for the coutersunk. No need to have it all flat, so next time after having only low strength Loctite for security on them you have the common Allen key for undoing.
Another way is to turn BA countersunk screws form hex bar and keep some hexagon for your spanner , not all flat to the clutch plate, no need for this. The finish is a bit like the nuts for the upper frame to head lug joints.
Vic
Another way is to turn BA countersunk screws form hex bar and keep some hexagon for your spanner , not all flat to the clutch plate, no need for this. The finish is a bit like the nuts for the upper frame to head lug joints.
Vic
I have often thought the same Vic, With the Clutch screws,
But there is not a lot of room when the clutch is lifted !,
In the past when I built an old type Multi plate clutch,
I made an simple Alloy plate spacer to go between the cover and the Primary case,
And then cut an 1, 1/2" gap in the spacer at the front and back, Half way up,
To let air in and out for cooling.
But there is not a lot of room when the clutch is lifted !,
In the past when I built an old type Multi plate clutch,
I made an simple Alloy plate spacer to go between the cover and the Primary case,
And then cut an 1, 1/2" gap in the spacer at the front and back, Half way up,
To let air in and out for cooling.
The C27 and the 2BA countersunk screws don't move in and out, only radially, so the gap between the inside of the clutch cover and the C27 and 406s is the same whether the clutch is engaged or disengaged, (lifted)
Sorry Brain fade !.
Ahh, thanks, looked up the BA history and learned the metric origins - but the mutation from this was pretty British weirdness. But in the context of these clutch screws the case of 2 BA is easy to convert to a more practical M 5 thread by chasing a metric tap into the old thread. Pitch is almost identic and diameter of M 5 is only a tad bigger so perfect for having decent Torx countersunk screws then. I don´t believe there will be allergic symptoms from the bike - unless the owner has some complex . . . .
Vic
Torx screws
Vic
Torx screws
