The Mighty Garage 1951 Vincent Rapide - Part 073: Separated Rear Sprocket
- Thread starter Mike T
- Start date
Sorry to see that Mike, Vincent's are full of tricky bit's.
It might save someone else doing it, Thanks for posting.
All The Best, Bill.
What I do is put a spring washer under the head of the bolt and just a plain nut.
Cheers Bill.
It might save someone else doing it, Thanks for posting.
All The Best, Bill.
What I do is put a spring washer under the head of the bolt and just a plain nut.
Cheers Bill.
The old NON Ribbed drums used to break up !, Not like yours, Right across where the linings go,
I did it in the 60s with a 1000 outfit, You could see the brake shoes !!,
I am going to use an old type on my New Comet, I will have to ride steady !!.
Cheers Bill.
I did it in the 60s with a 1000 outfit, You could see the brake shoes !!,
I am going to use an old type on my New Comet, I will have to ride steady !!.
Cheers Bill.
If you look on the 1st rib still on the drum you can see witness marks where the the end of the bolts holding the sprocket on have been in contact with the rib. Basically the bolts were a bit too long and put sideways force on the sprocket flange which resulted in it breaking eventually. Also ordinary nuts are thinner than nylock nuts as well so just use loctite on the standard nuts and correct 5/8" long bolts.
Simon
Simon
All good points including the marking caused by over long bolts. However, this fault is becoming more common as our bikes get older and it should be noted that the new ribbed drums are machined from cast iron billet, not cast to shape and should be stronger than the originals. After 70 years it is perhaps not surprising that the original cast iron is starting to fail.
The first thing I noticed Mike was the witness marks, and didn't need to look further, and was 1/2 way through writing to tell you when I noticed that (as it was you) it was, as usual, a well documented video. I had to delete my original post!
I use SS 5/8 long 1/4 UNF bolts and Thin Nylocks, available from any major nut and bolt supplier, They are threaded all the way so do not have the original solid shoulder at the joint but haven't failed me -- yet.
Concours ribbons all just went out the window, but in my defense I do machine all the stampings off the top and polish them and you can undo them with 1/4 bsf spanners!
I use SS 5/8 long 1/4 UNF bolts and Thin Nylocks, available from any major nut and bolt supplier, They are threaded all the way so do not have the original solid shoulder at the joint but haven't failed me -- yet.
Concours ribbons all just went out the window, but in my defense I do machine all the stampings off the top and polish them and you can undo them with 1/4 bsf spanners!
One uses what is readily available Robert, at least it's not 6mm which is what of the continentals use and a 3/16Whit or 1/4 BSW will not hold a 10mm AF head, I've had this out with Mr Speet, Mr Grosset & Mr Hamon, but thanks to Ian Savage we do have 1/4" Whitworth screw around the new primary cover for the Comet starters, Paul Hamon didn't really wont to give in but I'm glad he did. All my made continental stuff I've drilled out and tapped 1/4" BSF space is valuable on a bike and on trips one likes to carry a few tools & spares so that they are not required if you didn't carry them they would be. Inner tubes are to only things I've used and one spring link, but twice for other motorcyclists.
bananaman
bananaman
I felt a bit like a child at a Christmas Pantomime, only instead of shouting out "look behind you" I am shouting at my computer "look in front of you" Without wanting to go out to the garage to confirm, is it not possible to place the heads of the bolts inboard with nylock nuts outboard, thereby getting rid of the problem completely, but not winning any concours competitions.
Just been out to't shed and you will not be able to do it. 
It amazes me more DIY'ers don't end up killing themselves.