Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

oexing

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Problem with pushrod shrouds is you cannot be sure that all faces align well enough for flat seals. That is dependend on compression plates and all, also the machining of shroud ends. So I decided on spherical washers on top of shrouds so misalignment is taken care of this and the shroud does not put sideloads on seals down low in the recesses of engine case. The o-ring on top of the nut is allright with misalignments, you just do the nut up with some respect to the rubber seal.

Vic
P1080898.JPG


P1080901.JPG
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
You can pull the sprocket holder off the Alton shaft then trim the shoulder back .09" if you have a Lathe. Then move the Alton in more.
Is the Alton shaft stepped so the sprocket holder is returned to the same depth?
Have you been able to do this trim?
Any pics please?
Thank you
Craig
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Problem with pushrod shrouds is you cannot be sure that all faces align well enough for flat seals. That is dependend on compression plates and all, also the machining of shroud ends. So I decided on spherical washers on top of shrouds so misalignment is taken care of this and the shroud does not put sideloads on seals down low in the recesses of engine case. The o-ring on top of the nut is allright with misalignments, you just do the nut up with some respect to the rubber seal. Vic

Thanks Vic, Is there a standard o-ring size for this application, maybe an AS568 number?
Cheers
Craig
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Going back to the original question concerning the gap at the alternator interface; there is a problem here which I had to face up to when I made the 'Walkernators'. There are at least three diffent finishes to the rear of that casting. Some are totally flat, some have a 'cone' shape machined in and some have a 'cone' shape cast in and not all those are the same. My solution was to provide a 'squishy' 'o' ring with each kit. This was either a length of very soft 'o'ring material which had to be cut to length and then have the ends glued to make the 'o' ring. That was for those using engine oil in the primary chain case. For those using ATF I provided a length of hollow silicon rubber tubing which, once again, had to be cut to length and the ends glued with clear silicon mastic. Both items were easily compressible so that the body of the drive system, that is the item which replaces the original dynamo, could be pushed in and out to get the sprocket lined up with the middle chain run. A ninety thou gap is not a lot but something similar could easily be made.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Craig, about the o-ring, just get a cross section that will slip over the shroud and into the recess above the nut thread in the head. It will squash by force of the nut and seal hopefully. Misalignment of faces will not matter with this combination I´d think.
What puzzled me when assembling the first engine is the offset of recess for the lower shroud seal relative to the cam follower cup. I made alu 10x2 mm pushrods so for having clearance I made offset seal holders with an o-ring for the shroud. This was a mistake in the factory seemingly - or did they rectify this with later engines ?

Vic
P1070727.JPG


P1070802.JPG
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Well I followed the advice and droped the pushrod tube the tube stoped its decent with the top flange still in the cavity so I could do nothing about the top washer embedded as per usual in the top of the recess nor could I anoint the top face/flange of the tube I could however clean the lower washer and add some blue googe and screw back up with some grease on the nut thread thankfully its a brass nut and not one of those stainless interlopers lets see what tomorrow brings
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
But you could wind a decent amount of teflon tape around the shroud any time if not yet successful ?

Vic
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Mounting the 12v 200w Podtronics out of sight and enabling the look of a stock Miller regulator.

Battery tray off bike
2ea 3/4" Adel type clamps - Lowes
2ea 6mm x 25 mm bolts with nyloc nuts

20210526_173212.jpg20210526_174041.jpg

Battery tray back on bike for mock up.
Route the Podtronics colorful wires to the forward to allow hook up in the "empty" Miller regulator.

20210526_180906.jpg20210526_181257.jpg

You can sheath the Podtronics wires and trim them to suit.
Add a junction block inside the empty Miller regulator.
Join Alton two wires to the Podtronics yellow.
You can figure out the needed wires.

I like the look of the finished install.
There remains room under the battery tray for the Grosset starter relay.
 
Last edited:

Robert Watson

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
The podtronics setup for a DC generator will fit inside the Miller housing, not so much if it's for an alternator setup as that appears to be.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Amal paint for vintage 229/289 pair.
I would like to restore these original Amal, what paint can I find in the USA to provide the correct color and finish.

20210528_BSPairAmal1.jpg
 
Top