Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

oexing

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I did not fit that felt "seal" at all, there is no oil nearby. The assembly is sort of labyrinth even without felt and not a lot of dirt will find its way under the kickstart cover . A bit pointless in my eyes.

Vic
 

craig

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To make my fit of G52 felt seal to please me, I decided to shave some felt off the OD.

20210508_G52Shaving.jpg
I also used my grinder wheel as well, both at the end seemed to take off about 0.025" from the thickness.
Worked out very well.
 

craig

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Moving on to G91/1 clutch lever and pieces.
This is a simple press together in a vice?

20210508_G91Assemble.jpg
 

vibrac

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With regard to the bottom tube seal I am beginning to think that the real culprit is not the pushrod tubes or the standard seals (and I have tried new tubes and all the options from O rings to special seals) or what glue you add to the assembly the fact that all my engines are oil tight there except one(and its not a 'D') is leading me to think the fault lies in the shape of the crankcase recess even given I cant see it. anyway as I said on another thread, sod it it can weep this season I am riding.
I seems I cant leave things alone, A few days the cold and now the rain sent me back to the workshop with the Comet. I was not happy with the ignition timing for the starting so I retimed it at the 4deg closed ATD ran it on the bench (electric start) all Ok. Then I absentmindedly wiped the offending (rear) pushrod tube and seal of all oil and left it. I did it again on the following day and suddenly thought "I am sure I did that yesterday! This time I spent some time with rag and petrol and it was really oil free when I left it, and guess what? this morning its oily again all around the seal at the bottom of the tube and the engine has not run...
So perhaps its the top seal and not the bottom seal that has been the object of all my ire now a top seal is repairable in situe I wonder...
 

bmetcalf

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People have tried cutting the standard seals at an angle for fitting and then putting a dab of hylomar on the joint to seal it.
 

greg brillus

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Tim Just undo the gland nut, use some brake cleaner in a spray can and flush the thread area up in the hole, dry off with compressed air.....Wipe a smear of threebond or similar sealant around the very top of the gland nut, not so much on the threads, then wind the nut back up into the head and tighten. Wipe off any excess sealant and wait a while for the sealer to go off........ All should be well.
 

oexing

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Keep sealant free from the thread as it could be a challenge to undo the nut later. You might be lucky with trying several windings of teflon tape around the shroud and compress the lot by tightening the nut. You cannot do wrong with this, easily done.

Vic
 

Doug

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VOC Member
It appears to me the only ability to adjust the gap on an Alton install,
shown above as 0.090", would be the ability to move the pre installed shaft hub.
This Alton shaft hub does not appear to be movable.
So the "gap" is fixed gap for each Vincent twin install.

View attachment 41724


So this 0.090" gap must be pretty standard fare for Vincent twin.

20210421_altonfitup1-jpg.41710
You can pull the sprocket holder off the Alton shaft then trim the shoulder back .09" if you have a Lathe. Then move the Alton in more.
 
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