Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

vibrac

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When I wrote '25 years on' this month I mentioned Graham Jamesons claim that he had modified the cam plate design slightly using the then state of the art equipment and this resulted in a better gearchange. I know from experience that the 5 speed surtees box is a much better change and of course those camplate tracks are completely different. Perhaps the years of 'fun' trying to race a twin and the shortcommings of the gearbox comes down to the lack of a few alterations to a cam plate . After years if frustration I sometimes think its a problem that no end of fiddling with springs eccentric bolts and ratchet teeth can overcome
 
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craig

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So I compressed the G36/1 spring to coil bound and now it measures 18mm.
Sealed up gear box cover, sealed up the 10ea G99 screws, ck the gear indicator pattern and all is well.
1, N, 2, 3, 4 all line up as desired.
Still need safety wire cover at other end.

The shortened, by vice, G36/1 spring certainly allows easier shift.
 
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craig

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Safety wired cover now complete.
G99 to arrive today to use at G34.

I now see a thru hole drilled in ET221 Dynamo cradle to accept a wire BSW bolt inserted in to G34.
I did not notice this earlier.

20210415_WireG34.jpg
 
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craig

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First wired G34.
Not sure I like PO drilled cradle.
Not sure I like my choice of a very shortened G99 screw to use for this.
It works, but I am thinking allen head for screw and corner drill on cradle.

20210415_G34Wired1.jpg
 
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craig

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Primary cover trial fit, allowing me to scratch and chip some paint.
Chain and sprockets fitted.
The RFM pivot bolt washer, left side needs to be flatted on this side, otherwise scrape the paint on the primary cover.

20210415_PrimaryCoveerFit1.jpg
 
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greg brillus

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Yes you need to cut a flat on that washer........Have you tried to install either of the barrels into the crankcase mouths.........They can be a tight fit depending on who made them or if they are originals. Check the alignment of the primary sprockets........good to set up the genny and drive sprocket at this time, so you can set the correct width spacing and depth of genny sprocket with the slinger in place.........It is a good practice to trial fit things as you go, it takes a little more time, but it is worth it, and saves a bit of heart ache. If you are running the oil feeds to the rear of each cylinder then fit a piston to one rod.......no rings or clips......put the engine to BDC and mark the bore with a fine pencil or texter pen so you know how far down the piston sits at the bottom of the stroke........then you can accurately measure and work out where to drill the feed holes below the bottom piston ring.........very important........You generally need to grind a small vertical channel with a dremel to marry this up to the original feed at the rear of the case mouths.......The factory depth of these is 18 to 20 mm down from the top face of the case, but the new holes though the barrels will be lower than this. I'm away racing this weekend on the Norvin single, so I'll catch you when I get back, hopefully in one piece..........Cheers for now.........Greg.
 

oexing

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Craig,
to be open , I hate safety wires, cost me many a blood drop - but have to accept them in aviation as they are easy to check for function. But for safely locking the camplate bolt no need for that. As mentioned try a drop of mild thread locker on top windings after degreasing them and test next day. You will find the bolt will be tough for disassembling for several turns. I wonder why nobody wirelocks nyloc nuts ? They are not better than a mild to medium Loctite on a standard nut or screw. I never use nylocs anywhere, no reason to have them. There are several strengths of Loctite depending on how hard I like the locking properties.
Seems to be very common on this forum that many don´t have much faith in those chemicals and prefer lots of clumsy "safety" contraptions on their bikes when there were modern invisible alternatives. Certainly I will not pretend that Loctites are suitable for all thinkable places. You have to think about disassembly sometime later so the grade of glue may be a thing or something else for no-no to liquid lockers.

Vic
 

craig

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Trial fitted cylinders and heads to ensure this assembly will continue.
Fit is tight but can be tapped on and off.
Rattle can paint from Eastwood on order to finish cyl and heads.

Alton dynamo on order, Podtronics & drive sprocket included.
Forgot to inquire about Alton sealing to primary.

20210416_CylOnTrialLt.jpg
 
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Bill Thomas

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Craig,
to be open , I hate safety wires, cost me many a blood drop - but have to accept them in aviation as they are easy to check for function. But for safely locking the camplate bolt no need for that. As mentioned try a drop of mild thread locker on top windings after degreasing them and test next day. You will find the bolt will be tough for disassembling for several turns. I wonder why nobody wirelocks nyloc nuts ? They are not better than a mild to medium Loctite on a standard nut or screw. I never use nylocs anywhere, no reason to have them. There are several strengths of Loctite depending on how hard I like the locking properties.
Seems to be very common on this forum that many don´t have much faith in those chemicals and prefer lots of clumsy "safety" contraptions on their bikes when there were modern invisible alternatives. Certainly I will not pretend that Loctites are suitable for all thinkable places. You have to think about disassembly sometime later so the grade of glue may be a thing or something else for no-no to liquid lockers.

Vic
I think you need Nylocks on the Cam shafts and the followers, To seal with the rubbers in the T/case ?.
 

davidd

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Nyloc nuts are about as effective as a plain nut with a plain washer when vibrated. The big advantage of Nyloc is that you won't lose the nut. The nut will lose all of its clamping force but remain on the threaded shank. At 7000 RPM a Nyloc on a Vincent unscrews in a few seconds, depending on its location.

AHRMA does not allow the use of Nyloc nuts, which is why they are sometimes drilled for lock wire in order to pass tech inspection.

Installer skill is the limiting factor with lock wiring and chemicals. I use both, but I rely more heavily on lock wire because the visual inspection is so easy for me and Tech.

The Simmonds nuts are oil seals and not used as lock washers. The extra friction of a new nut can sometimes snap off the end of the spindle if you don't pay attention.

David
 
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