Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration
- Thread starter craig
- Start date
Check you have the spindle tight enough with a decent screwdriver. Afterwards a liquid low strength type of Loctite thread locker on the top threads is all you need. No medium strength please else you will have troubles to undo. The Loctite also seals the thread so no oil creeping out.
The design is not very great, did you feel a lot of slack in the plain bore between spindle and case ? In that condition I would possibly apply a bit of LOW strength thread locker on the shaft as well.
Vic
The design is not very great, did you feel a lot of slack in the plain bore between spindle and case ? In that condition I would possibly apply a bit of LOW strength thread locker on the shaft as well.
Vic
To determine whether the locator spring for the cam plate is too strong just undo the lock wire and unscrew it a little. If that does not ease the cam plate rotation then you might have another problem. The top of the gearbox round the spindle really is a mess. Vibrac's suggestion, or something similar, would be a good idea, The 1/4 BSW thread is in the middle of the spindle and even when everything else is in good conditions many of us fit a short bolt and wire lock it to one of the studs which holds down the dynamo. That stops the spindle undoing. Vic's suggestion of weak Loctite would also be a good idea.
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Craig, the center thread is 1/4 BSW same as cover screws.........Try Norman's idea for the plunger spring to see if this helps. if so, then compress the spring in the jaws of a vice until it coil binds, this should shorten it by about 2 mm or so and then it will work fine. On nearly all older engines I've found the cam plate spindle is loose.........The center bolt/lock wire trick is good.......I use a liquid thread sealant on them, just on the upper threads........this seals from an oil leak, plus helps stop it coming undone........I use a product called Cyberbond........SH 27........This is an amber color anaerobic thread sealant that is excellent........especially on fuel taps and many other oil unions on these bikes. You can smear a little around the exposed threads shown in your picture, then undo the spindle several turns to get the sealant on the upper threads of the spindle, then wind it in tight with a good screwdriver, one that you can put a spanner on if possible . Make sure you are happy with the shift of the gearbox before doing this last step.........The sealant I mentioned is great for all the oil return lines across the heads using the stock lower seals and small 1/4" dowty type seals under the bolts atop........even a tinny amount on the taper faces of the pipes them selves.......I never get any leaks from this area if this is all done carefully.
As a seasoned mechanic, I hate to admit this, but my gear indicator lever is off a half a gear.
Loosening G37 selector pawl plug helped with easing shift effort.
Shifting position seemed funny, I put my shiny black shift cover on then the lever.
First gear position is indicated at neutral, neutral indicated at 2nd gear, 2nd at about 2½ 3rd at 3¼ and fourth at a little past fourth.
So wiping the tears away, I am cutting the safety wire for a reinstall of gear cluster.
Here shows 2nd gear indicated
Loosening G37 selector pawl plug helped with easing shift effort.
Shifting position seemed funny, I put my shiny black shift cover on then the lever.
First gear position is indicated at neutral, neutral indicated at 2nd gear, 2nd at about 2½ 3rd at 3¼ and fourth at a little past fourth.
So wiping the tears away, I am cutting the safety wire for a reinstall of gear cluster.
Here shows 2nd gear indicated
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Craig, no need to remove the cluster, just back out the cover screws, take out the cam plate spindle, then tap the input shaft out slightly from the right side with a soft hammer.........just move the gearset, cam plate and forks just enough to rotate the cam plate as far is it will go (best if the cover and the input shaft are fully out so you can look in to see what is going on) cam plate fully counter clockwise when viewed from above......Its good to hang a spanner or similar off the nut on the G 40 shaft to keep it fully counter clockwise from the right side. The whole job can be done quite quickly and together again in no time. Don't feel bad about it, we've all done it before........
