Misc: Everything Else 1951 Black Shadow Restoration

greg brillus

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VOC Member
The taper roller conversion, is based on both rollers on one side with a spacer between the inner races........not a taper roller on either side.......I've only ever done one on my single racer, but I would like to do it again on my next twin road bike special using new cases. Harley have done this for years with no major issues.......No problems with outer races walking out anywhere.
 

craig

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VOC Member
The oil tank (UFM) I was told, was cleaned at a radiator shop for several days in their tank, then flushed clean, then blown air dry. It was then taken to a powder coater and powdered gloss black. It looked okay looking in the fill port, not new, but okay.
So last week I decided to flush this shiny black tank with kerosene to see what would flow out the oil feed at the rear. The flush was very disappointing. lots of dirty kerosene and solids.

So today I pulled the tank off !
5 bolts with tapered nuts, a little difficult to remove. I had to use a Dremel with cut off wheel to remove the powder coat around each hex.

Where is the thread on cutting open an oil tank and cleaning out, then welding back up.??

20210127_UFMOiltank1.jpg
 
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Cyborg

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VOC Member
Vic,
If you are using 620 or 640 even with slow cure, with the heated case how do you prevent it from locking up the outer race when it is only 1/2 way in? I have found that with heating the case, sometimes it will cure instantly. It was 640 that I was using.
 

Shane998

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Non-VOC Member
The oil tank (UFM) I was told, was cleaned at a radiator shop for several days in their tank, then flushed clean, then blown air dry. It was then taken to a powder coater and powdered gloss black. It looked okay looking in the fill port, not new, but okay.
So last week I decided to flush this shiny black tank with kerosene to see what would flow out the oil feed at the rear. The flush was very disappointing. lots of dirty kerosene and solids.

So today I pulled the tank off !
5 bolts with tapered nuts, a little difficult to remove. I had to use a Dremel with cut off wheel to remove the powder coat around each hex.

Where is the thread on cutting open an oil tank and cleaning out, then welding back up.??

View attachment 39850
Probably would have been easier to disassemble forks and kept tank and head lug as an assembly But as for cleaning tank I have put repeated kero , hot water , metho , anything else you can think of with some large nuts to shake about and soak then drain each time get a little less debris coming out Yesterday took tank I’ve been cleaning to check inside with camera and it was finally clean just took persistence good luck
 

marcmm1890

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
The oil tank (UFM) I was told, was cleaned at a radiator shop for several days in their tank, then flushed clean, then blown air dry. It was then taken to a powder coater and powdered gloss black. It looked okay looking in the fill port, not new, but okay.
So last week I decided to flush this shiny black tank with kerosene to see what would flow out the oil feed at the rear. The flush was very disappointing. lots of dirty kerosene and solids.

So today I pulled the tank off !
5 bolts with tapered nuts, a little difficult to remove. I had to use a Dremel with cut off wheel to remove the powder coat around each hex.

Where is the thread on cutting open an oil tank and cleaning out, then welding back up.??

View attachment 39850
So the problem was caused by powdercoating work. They burn off the old finish, sandblast, then apply powder and bake. Residual sand is a problem. I installed a Conway manhole on my UFM projects. that way you can clean the heck out of and inspect the inside.
 

greg brillus

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VOC Member
I recon the only reason you would want to powder-coat something like a UFM is if you want to hide something.......... Worst thing you can ever do.........I have one here on a "B" Shadow, that was powder coated, and the dumb asses that done it did not even blank anything off. All the threads, inside the filler neck all coated in a thick black coating, and loads of blast medium inside the tank.........All lovely stuff for a brand new engine.........words fail me........Leave the powder coating for garden furniture.
 

craig

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Has anyone had good luck with replacing the UFM oil tank with new?


ConwayTank2.jpgVOCSparesOilTank1.jpg

I thought I remember (2013) someone cutting the oil tank top open with a 5-6" swath off the top.

OpenOilTank2.JPG
 
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Comet Rider

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hi Craig,
What's wrong with the Conways man hole setup.
It gives you the access you need, and it's removeable again in the future for cleaning.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Mine has been sitting in a parts washing tank with a mixture of diesel fuel and solvent. It has a hose entering the oil filler which heads to the rear of the tank.... hopefully close to the settling pond below the main oil feed line. The fluid is pumped through a cartridge filter and into the tank. The pump is run randomly to help flush out debris. At some point it will get an inspection with a camera and an additional flush with MEK and then a session with oxalic acid to remove any corrosion. Undecided if it will get an inspection port yet, but if it does, it will be closer to the back of the tank so I can clearly see the settling pond and scrape any remaining crud out of there.
There could be several sets of cams and followers laying in the bottom of that pond.
 
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