Just some points of interest whilst you have that picture on there........Those studs you mention, screw them in with some loctite.......They are in there pretty much permanently so no need to remove again.......The rear of the G59 AS near the large rivet.......You might need to linish a small amount off the end so it does not hit the G 49 lever stop housing as it sweeps past on every shift. If you use the valve stem seal type of valve lifter ferrule screwed into the rear upper corner of the timing chest, you often need to linish off a bevel at the top right corner of the G 50 plate to give the hollow tube/cable abutment room to fit without the parts clashing, about the same area as where the clutch cable hole is at the top.......from there forward, and on the inner side mostly.......another tip.......If you have all the crankcase though studs, it is a good idea to pass them through the cases to work out and label which ones go where.......The lower forward ones pass through the prop stand plates so you need to make allowances for that.......The studs can sometimes be too long, so it pays to trim them down, the excess threads overhanging the nuts looks a bit ugly. The ones that pass within the primary that hold the gearbox together, you can mark them with numbers alongside the holes and on each stud. The 2 in your pic at 7:00 o' clock are the two longest ones. The studs passing from the primary to the right side, and the 2 or 3 within the timing chest should have a generous smear of sealant under the fixed nuts that anchor into the case holes......this is very important if you want to minimize leaks, especially off the bottom front corner of the kick start cover. Oil will migrate along the studs from the primary and the same within the timing chest......oil can seep along the stud holes and show on the opposite side at some stage.........very annoying, and difficult to fix once its all together........This is where modern sealants are far superior to those available years ago..........Cheers.